Back to comps :)

WC Puurs ...

 

First and most important of all, what i have to say is – I was so happy to climb again and be able to grab all kind of holds! :)

As you know, i have skipped world championship and during this time, healing my finger and spent some time at local gym, climb what i was able to... So, i felt (quite) ready and very excited to go to next competition! Sure, only after 3 weeks my finger wasn't completely healed, but (very) good enough to climb, even hard routes. I hope, that with performance will everything be quite there as it needs to be and that during this time i didn't loos soo much of resistance and power. But i also knew, that i still need to be little careful with thumb and that i will need to fight even more than usually! :)

 

Because other team was already in Puurs, i took a plane and joined them on thursday. Competition in Puurs is always very good organized and said with one word, perfect!

On the day of competition, standing under this wall brigs me mixed feelings. I was happy to be there, excited to go climb, observed the routes and liked them, but honesty, also kind of unsure what to expect ... And this kind was also my climbing - little too 'secured'. But already in first route, which i have topped out, i got a prove, that everything is almost where it needs to be :). So, go on! :) Next day there was ½ finals and finals. In ½ final i started very good, but later in upper part of route little 'stuck' on some few places and spent some extra power to come trough. But, it was enough for finals :). Route in final was by my opinion easier than ½ final, maybe with some more cruxy parts and top (but i can't say for sure, because i didn't come till there). Well, maybe to sum up that day – i was happy to be 'back' again, not loose too much in this time and satisfied with climbing - specially, that i fight and not give up!

 

So, after competition we packed thing and went back to Slovenia for few days, before leaving on next step on WC's in Atlanta.

(all fotos by: Roman Krajnik)

So, see you there!

Bye, mina

No Paris ...

Yes, it's true …

 

I am not in Paris and I have break myfinger... It happened before ½ final on boulder WC in Munich, during waring up. As i already written in last post, my thumb staied in hole of sloper, when i was trying some moves. First, i didn't realize that somethig is 'really' wrong, sure i felt pain, there were aslo some blood, so i thought 'just some another scratches, i will survive' and went out to climb. Maybe, it was also 'luck' that i got an extra attempt on one boulder and didn't qualify for finals. But, i am not sure, if i would climb that eve...

Next day finger got swollen and stucked on place. So i went on x-rays to check, if everythnig is ok. And sure –it WASN'T! Doctor came to me and said 'girl, that's your picture.little front thumb bone is broken' … You can imagine my face and i get little dizzy for a momment... NOOO, it can't be true! But, it was.

(Thay have also told me, that finger MUST rest and be on place (=not move), because other way, there is high chance that little bone is not going to heal and can go out of wright place. And than there will be problems ... but luckly i didn't get a longete or screw, as they also thought to do)...

So, what to do now? I canceled Arco at first and staied really optimistics that i will climb on WC in Bercy. I have good experience with this wall from Chamonix, nice memories from european championship in Paris 2008 and knew, that i train good and hard for this comp... So, plan was to stay away from holds for a week (even, if i wanted to, i couldn't really grab a hold :S ), do some running and therapies. It accually wasn't so hard for me to wait that week to pass, because i believed, that it will be good after that. I really started climbing (or more moving on the wall) after a week, but there were still pain and i couldn't grab a lot of holds. But, situation was getting visiby better and better from day to day, so i didn't get out of hopes for WC.

There is place for me now ...

Anyway that finger was/ is healling unbelieveble quick, day before deppartment there were still holds, that i couldn't grab, even if i wanted so much. Just before departure the x-ray photo was not so good that i expected :'(. So, after lotsof thingking, me, my coach and doctor decided that it is too risky togo on comp … Because i know, once i would be there i would grab holds, even if there will be pain. And one 'wrong' move and bone could goout of place and i could say goodbye not just to one comp, but ... And because climbing means so much to me, i decided not to risk, because i want to climb also later in my life. And there is no comp worth the helth of my finger, even if this in WCin Paris. Specilally, because everything with healling was/is gettingso good and accually quick, that it is worth to wait for a week and get it really healed. Even, if there is world champipnship:S...

So, i staied home, training well and watching all you guys from web-broadcasting. But, i am looking forward that you will se me lready in Puurs. well, not just tottaly the same 'old' me, but keep it sicret! ;)

Till than, i will cross thingers for all Slovenia climbing team and also other on WC.

And i will also let you know, if there will be some news from here! ;)

Munich bouldering ...

Munich – last boulderingWC in 2012

It pass quite long timesince last bouldering WC and climbing boulder for me. In this time, i have been totally concentrated on lead climbing, but it doesn't mean, that i have forget how to climb boulders :)

I have good memories for last 2 years competing in Munich – really nice competition area and atmosphere for climbing, good boudlers and also good results. So, i was excited to come here again this year!

In qualifications i did all boulder, 3 flashes and some more (stupid) attempts on last one, but still good enough for provisional 5th place.

For next day, i have expected quite harder boulders and also warmed up this way … but just around 15minutes before start my thumb stucked in hole of sloper when i was trying some nice and hard moves :S …situation wasn't nice, but i tried to forget that it happened, focused on competition and boulders, which were waiting for me outside.

 (well, on this i still need to do something :) ...

Except 'jump-based' boulder i have flashed all other 3 easily :) But, because of 'wrong start' on last one, i got an extra attempt, so it just wasn't enough for finals :SSS . So, i have missed last WC finals this year, finishing on 8th place.

Result maybe really don't seems the best, but for me, this competition was still a good sign for upcoming events. I was quite satisfied with climbing and prove to myself, that i am still strong able to climb boulders on high level and i also believe, fight for best places.

What's next? Will see ... but probably you will here my next update from Paris! ;)

World cup Imst - 2nd place

Since last WC in Briancon it has already pass few weeks, but for me it seems just like a little longer and good week. I have spend this time mostly with team, climbing home or somewhere abroad … So, i admit, i was very excited to go to Imst! Also wall here is quite unique, very high and overhanging and it just imagine an extra challenge to me. I wanted to get on the top of this wall and enjoy nice view as many times as possible :)

This time climbing schedule was different than usually, with mostly all happening on friday and finals on saturday. On friday we started already in morning with two qualification routes and ½ final in evening. In first route i have started as second. Not so used on early starting i have started climbing little unsure, but felt more relaxed and easy going from move to move and top the first route. Also second line was pleasure to climb and clip the top …

Just after few hours we started with ½ final. Route looked really nice, quite logical and long … and i admit, looong was also time in isolation zone. But after 25 climbers it was time to go. This time, very similar like in ½ final in Chamonix i found out route quite easy and 'walked' to the top again! Satisfied with good climbing i went home to rest and prepare for next day's FINALS!

 

In finals first started boys, so i couldn't watch them climbing :( , but still congratulation to Jorg Verghoeven for win! … After them it was time for women’s final! I have warmed up and waited for my turn ... This time i didn't feel so comfortable on wall like day before, did couple of little mistake trough the route and sure, get more and more tired on the way up. I didn't reach the top, but i am still quite satisfied, that i have tried my best. Congratulations to Momoka Oda for her first win and sure, great performance!

Now, there will be 2 weeks break till next event – boulder WC in Munich! See you there! ;)

Little update from Swiss

... so, we went there to train! :) unfortunately not all team, but still very good company – our coach Roman Krajnik, 4 boys from Škofja Loka (Urban, Jure, Sergej, Martin) and me.

First day we climbed at Gaswerk, reall ynice climbing center in Zurich. I have been here already for few times, but i am always fascinated over this center – 18 meters height wall and plenty of nice and good routes! Even, that there are not so little of hard stuff (around 8b), after am & pm training we didn't almost nothing left for next time! :)

It looked like our boys maybe didn'thave enough and tried also 'self-belying' routes, where we made one funny video (commin soon - sorry) . and because there were only 4 'places' on this system and they looked more excited over this, i resigned them 'my' place :).

Than we continued our trip next day with training in Bern. Wall there is shorter, but there are still plenty of different, but very good and interesting routes. Shorter, harder and more intensive lines were this time maybe little easier for boys, but even more challenging for me! :)

Today we visit St.Galen, again another really nice and high wall. We climbed till we didn't have enought, went on nice dinner and drive home...

Tomorrow, i am not sure what's on plan, but i am sure it will be another interesting day!

Stay tuned :)

PS: currently some more pictures you can see here, but more are comming in next days ;)

EDIT:
So, next day was different from others ... it was - rest day! we spent it to go to Zurich downtown for see-sighting and little walk, watch movie and just enjoyed the day...

We finished our (too short) trip with stop in classic training place in Innsbruck tivoli. As usually there were plenty of climbers/competitors and bunch of hard and nice routes. At the end of the day i was little sad that we didn't stay there for some days more... but anyway, it was a really nice trip, with good training and company! now, we're going home to rest and prepare for next stop - world cup in Imst! :)

Swiss

On the way to Swiss :) ...

Briancon

After Chamonix I went home with team... It was maybe little sad, because a lot of slovenians (and also my boyfriend) and other teams stay there, but i have also loooved to go home, rest well and train a little bit on 'my wall' in Škofja Loka and coach (Roman Krajnik;). Oh, and one day also Kleme Bečan come to visit us :)

For Briancon I had good memories from last year, where I was 2nd. But this year, i admit, my goal was same as a week ago ... In qualifications I found out, that wall and routes are in general more vertical and tehnical and it s better to climb slowlier. Ok, good that I have found out this in 1st line and know for others :) so, 2nd qualification was easier for me, even that there were less tops...

Next day it was day of ½ final and final. I sleept reallllly very well … and my phone wake-up clock did not ring ... –> oh, ****, i' ve almost sleept too long!!! Good, that i have this nice habbit, that i always, every evening, preapare all the stuff and things for next day :). so, i just woke up, grabbed my stuff and went into isolation zone – no hurry, there was still 30minutes left – uhhh ...

In ½ final, route look quite tricky, but ok. I saw that there all few moves, which you have to decide and go, but when i come to that point i just waited little too much. But, i did the move and pass trought the route to another crux. There I took wrong consequence on holds and it caused me better result/top out the route. I said to myself - 'ok, i go to rest and still have another chance to make better in final'!!! In evening I was sure in this thought, fell really good and strong, but it turned out this thought afer ½ final was just a unuseful wish – route too easy to correct anything, 5 tops and finish on 4th place in this comp for me...



Ok, that's it. Now, i will go home, rest maybe for a day or two and than go to train in Swiss with team! - Can't wait for that!!!! :D