ponedeljek, 23. marec 2015

a little bite of rock climbing :)

In between training there come a time for a little break from plastics and time for some of rock climbing. Unfortunately, by weather and routes like this, not really long enough. :(
As you maybe noticed (on Slovenia climbing team fb profile), part of the team took a trip to Font, but another one, more lead oriented staid at home and moved to a weekend on Slovenian coast to Mišja peč/Osp.

Focus and plan wasn't to realize nothing hard (even, that I feel quite ready to:), but to climb as much as possible, enjoy and get a bit of different break between training.
So, I've climbed plenty of routes about 8a, 8b and so on... some of them I visited for first time, some reclimbed and with some just closed up 'unfinished business' from last years.

It was a good weekend spend on Mišja peč/Osp classics, which I definitly reccomend to you ;)

torek, 03. marec 2015

First IFSC world climbing camp in Central Saanich (Canada)

About a week ago, I have an opportunity to cooperate on first world climbing camp. So what it was?
It was a 3 day educational-competition event for youth climbers, competitors, their coaches and all, who wants to get some extra information about (competition) climbing and experience competition itself. You can also read, what they say about an event on their web-site**.

But, moreover, it was a time, where and when, all participants could get a personal touch with the best speed, lead and boulder climbers in the world, coaches and route setters, have an opportunity to talk and learn from them.
Adam Ondra talks to his group of climbers. Foto: 
The event itself was made like a 'camp'. On Friday and Saturday there was a time to get know each other (about 100 participants, from ages around 13 - 45, but mostly youth) and 11 'group leaders' (world cup climbers, officials and organizers*).
Little clinc - 'in the mind of routesetter (and competitors on other side)'
There was a time for different workshops, connected to competition, implemented by us. Like 'on-sighting' with Anam Ondra and Maja Vidmar, 'warming up for competition' with Sean McCall and Domen škofic, 'everyday obligations and training' with Sebastian Halenke and Charlotte Durif, 'in mind of route setter' with Adam Pustelnik, ...

On Saturday and Sunday, it was a time of competition. There were 6 categories, 3 for male and female; beginners, intermediate and advance climbers, divided in groups despite of their level of climbing provided on sign in application. Saturday was a time for 'flash' and Sunday for 'on-sight format'.
coach's work ...
There were also a speed qualifications and finals. All participants (including us), were required to do both - and we did :). My role (as a 'coach') was to take care of my group of participants (and optional also some others), warm them up, provide them all information what they need for comp, follow their climbing, collect results, talk and share some extra advices ect,... Interesting experience, which I hope I did well :)
Me, my help by leading a group - Anna McColl (glad to meet you) with part or our group (unfortunately some of them already had to leave home earlier ... :(
What was also interesting on this camp was, that competition routes were set and tested by us (world cup climbers), mentored by one of route setter. It was another great, unique and very value experience on this camp for me, about which, I could write for a while.
Settin my first route :)
Get to know, what like are other roles of things, you usually do, experience and challenge yourself in role the of coach, workshop holder, route setter, ... To see, if you could, can and actually want to do this after your career and sure, know to value a bit more, what others do to you during the comp. Stand on the other side of the competition field as usual, gives me a LOT!

The camp, was also a chance, when we can spend time and get know better other climbers, who we are meeting regularly on comps, but this time in an more relaxed environment and specially with more time to talk, climb and spend time together.

So, for me, it was kind of on unique, but a VERY successful event, with mix of climbing, learning, competition (for youth), leisure, but all in one, gaining a LOT's of precious and value knowledge and skills on both sides - participants and organizers as well!

Definetly something, what I am looking forward to repeat, if there will be another chance like this! :)

After all, we showed big support to CAC with grop T-shirt photo.

More fotos about an event you can find on facebook here (the circuit climbing), here (the boulders gym) ...

*Organizers: Kimanda Jarzebiak (main organizer), coach Roman Krajnik (SLO), international route setter Adam Pusteknik (POL), world cup competitors: Adam Ondra (CZE), Sean McColl (CAN), Domen Skofic (SLO), Sebastian Halenke (GER), Maja Vidmar (SLO), Mina Markovic (SLO), Helene Janicot (FRA), Charlotte Durif (FRA), Libor Hroza (CZE), Klaudia Buczek (POL), Aleksandra Rudzinska (POL)
**On web side page they wrote: ''Meet the world's top competition athletes, and learn from them! :) Spend the weekend with the top climbers on the world cup circuit in lead and speed, who will share their knowledge and experience with you. You'll attend workshops given by these top-ranked athletes, as well as international coaches and officials. Then you'll be assigned to a team led by one of the elite athletes, and compete alongside them in a fun lead and speed competition. ''

National award for sport climber of the year

As every year, also this year Slovenia alpine gives away awards for best mountaineer and sport climbing achievements for the past year.

For me, it was already 5th in the row, but it is always nice to receive a accomplishment and a throw a look back at the past season, before new fully starts. In the men's category, Jernej Kruder receives his first award. Congratulation also to best coach - Roman Krajnik all other team mates for great achievements in the past year and all strong youngsters, who definitely did a great job!

More, (unfortunately only in Slovenian) you can read here.