torek, 30. oktober 2012

Perfect end of Asia tour - 1st place on WC Inzai! :)

So, we ended our 'Asia competition tour' with last stop in a small city near Tokio, Inzai. As usual for competitions here, everything was really nice organized, and even that wall wasn't so impressive and big as somewhere else. I think route setters did a really nice and interesting job! (ok, this does not include men’s final...)
This time, when i finished the final route i was quite sure the previous rounds will decide about the podium again. Ok, but this time, i admit, i really climbed badly in qualifications and especially semifinals. I still don't have a clear idea of what actually happened there...

But, the important thing is, in finals (again), i focused and climbed how i believed i am able and prepared right now – well! :)
This time maybe luck was a little bit on my side. After 3 times in a row finishing on 2nd place based on climbing in qualifications or semifinals, it turned out that only i finished the route ... Jain Kim also almost did it too, but fell from the top, although she almost held it, but didn't resist the swing. Maja Vidmar also completed this nice podium with a great climb!
Also as a team, Slovenia took 2nd place! :)

So, now we're going home and there will be a little break till last WC stage in my home country - Kranj, Slovenia, and i am already looking forward for this nice and classic event! :) Till than, i will have some nice and precious time to rest and prepare myself for this last event.
For WC 2012 overall (lead) everything is still open. So it will be judged in Kranj, who will take the 'crown' of the lead WC 2012. With men it will be 'battle' between Ramon and Annma and with girls me and Jain will compare our strength!

Stay tuned and see you in Kranj! :)

torek, 23. oktober 2012

2nd place on WC Mokpo, Korea

Another very successful competition and a great result!

Foto: Heiko Wilhelm

So, our last stop on this 'Asia competition tour' was in Mokpo, nice city, close to the sea in Korea. It was again everything really well organized*, the climbing wall was amazing and I also really liked (hard) routes there.

As I have already mentioned, this time we have had quite hard routes already from the beginning (qualifications), so there were not lot of tops seen in this competition. But I think it is just ok, because everyone got a solid chance to climb, fight and show her/his best! For me, this time, especially at the start, the routes were a little harder. Not just because of the grades, but I have also fought with some health problems. But with every route I felt better, stronger and I think it was also possible to see this in climbing. The second day I finished semifinals almost at the top and in finals again, climbed high enough to win, but based on previous rounds took a silver medal. I'm sorry that there is no height „-“ anymore, which would have brought me gold this time. But, don't get me wrong I am still really satisfied with my climbing in finals and also think that every podium on the world cup competition is a great achievement! And, I think that the most important thing of all of this  is, that I got a confirmation, that I am really well prepared, able to climb really good and … every time closer :)

This time, win went to Korea's climber Jain Kim, who showed really nice and good climbing and to Dinara Fahratdinova (3rd place), who took her first medal – congratulations to both!

So, in those days we have already moved to Japan, where it will be 3rd (and last) WC competition of this 'tour'. Currently we are placed somewhere in suburb of Tokyo, climbing, chilling and having fun untill next competition!

See you soon! (or on
Bye, mina

*except warming up-zone, but this is another story...

četrtek, 18. oktober 2012

1st place on China's master!

So, as you can see, we have quite tuff and full competition schedule. Just next day after Xining we have moved to another competition, master in Jingsu city, near Shanghai. Weather here was more friendly and warmer than Xining, so we could also enjoy some more days of 'summer'.

Here was also everything very well organized and they really took good care of competitors!Competition were placed near lake, so from isolation you had nice view, but also need to be careful, not to finishing into water :)...

Because this time there were no live stream, i will try to describe a bit more... Competition were split into to parts, first day qualifications and next day finals for best 8 from previous day. Both rounds were made in 'on-sight' format, which i maybe prefer little more. Wall here was 15m height, with slightly overhang at the beginning, following with big overhang/roof and finishing with kind of slab, little similar to Xining. Routes this time were for my opinion perfect and allowed good classification. They were kind of different, maybe more technical and tricky and not (just) endurance-powerful. First day i felt from the top (what didn't happened to me for a long time) and tied place with Dinara (Fahritdinova). Next day i made top and won master, second place went to Eugenia Malamid (who felt from the top) and 3rd to Dinara. It was also good day for young Slovenian climber Domen Škofic, who took his first (and silver) medal on international adoult competitions :)

So, even that here we had really nice time, I am already excited to move to next place – Mokpo in Korea, where it will next stop of WC competitions, happening on sunday and saturday 20th and 21st of October.

See you there! (of on ;) )
Bye, mina (and Slovenia climbing team)

ponedeljek, 15. oktober 2012

2nd Again :)

New competition, new top and poduim :).

Well, we are already well acclimatized in China, atmosphere here in Xining (Quinghai planetau - 2500m) is different, but nice, weather continental, with cold mornings/evenings and nice sunny days, actually good conditions for climbing.

Ok, now something about the competition. I have to say, that I was satisfied with my performance, especially in qualifications and final. About the semifinals, I can't really say that. My not so good result was also due to the strange route crux, which was fatal for many girls, also for me. But, it was enought for finals! :)
And there was again different story. Route looked nice and climbable, but I didn't want to underestimate it. I have started to climb and everything went smooth and easy. With every move reaching the top seemed more realistic. Finnaly I have clipped the top chain, but about 20 seconds too late for winning. WHY? Me and Johanna both topped out final route, and were also judged at the same height in semifinals. So due to the new rule, if two (or more) climbers are at the same point in all rounds, at the end, time is the judge. Ok, that's the way it is, I am still very happy that I did the route!!! :). 

PS: And even, if I would know about Johanna's top, I probably wouldn't be climbing (much) faster, becase you still needed to finish this route and obviously it still wasn't so easy (if it was, there would probably be more than 2 tops, right?). I think also neither of us climbed really slowly, actually 6:09 or 6:27 seems very reasonabble climbing time for a route this long.

But, what bothers me more is fact, that already for the 3rd time this year, I have climbed finals good enought to win, but finished 2nd or 4th, because of a mistake or lower heihgt in semifinals :S … Yes, it just got me thinking a bit to do something about it! But I think already in cmming day I will have more than one perfect chance to try to change this :).

Our next stop after Xinning will be master in Wujiang, Jiangsu city in China.
Stay tuned and I will update ;)!

četrtek, 11. oktober 2012

FIRST STOP -Xining (Quinghai province, China)

tomorrow qualifications on 10am (our time = 4am Europe)

Qualifications went fine and I toped out bouth routes. Next udate - tomorrow!

ASIA TOUR --- and the youreny has begun :)

When I saw the competition schedule for 2012 and realize that it is going to be 3 chain lead competitions in Asia, I just blinked. I realized, that it is going to be one of the longest competition tour that I have ever done and I got really excited. First of all, just for info, i really like Asia. No joke. All the places where i have been till now – lots of different areas in China, Singaup, Malayzia, Korea and Japan, they all fascinate me and I am always looking forward to come back.
So, after returning from Atlanta I have been home for a good week, nothing more. In this time I have rested, trained and tried to keep good care of myself and stay healthy as much as possible :)

I will update as much as I can, I am looking forward to writing something soon and have some good news! ;)

WC Atlanta - 2nd place and back in the game :)

So, just after a few days after Puurs we have already been in Atlanta for next lead cometition. Qualifications routes were this time maybe little easier but more tehnical, what suited me and brought me 2 tops. The next day in ½ final I did a mistake, but corrected it very good in the longest (but still very nice) final route, that I have never climbed. Based on ½ final results, where I did the mistake, I finished on second place, but was very happy to be on the podium again. Congratulations also to my  teammate Maja for the new podium and of course to Jain Kim for winning this event.

If you have missed 24/7tv live broadcast you can also watch the video from the competion ...

Next time, you will hear from me from Asia, where we are going to 4 competitions – (12.-13.10. Xining (Chn), 16.-17.10. Pudong master (Chn), 20.-21.10. Mogkpo (Kor) and 27.-28.10. Inzai (Jpn).
I am already very excited! See you! ;)