ponedeljek, 20. julij 2015

WC inBriancon -not really a good weekend ...

Last year the storm blown away the finals, this year an injury did it for me :(...

Well, as you can read from previous posts, I was really looking firward to this comp. I loved the current shape and fact, that there are plenty of comp at this period followed one after another.
All foto: Roman Krajnik
So after just two days at home, with a little time to sort out all the obligations and do some training, i was really excited for next challange to start! :)
Qualifications started pretty early and in front of us was kind of hot and pretty long day. How long and tuff it is going to be, at that momment, i din't know jet. Sure, i even couldn't  imagine and expect it. I have clipped the top in one qualifixations route and fighted against the heat almost to top in 2nd one. I felt really good and were excited for semifinals to start... BUT, during the warming up i felt. Not a lot, just a bit. But probbably not even 30cm was enought, that i landed hard and badly on the mats and felt a pain my ankle :(. Fist I thought and hoped, i get just scared and stressed out, because teammate Domen Skofic just twisted his ankle on last training before we went on a comp. And i didn't want to believe this can be this again. I went back to isolation, get some help and support by organizer's doctor and later continued with warming up. All seemed pretty good, but soon it showed up, it wasn't. Ankle got swollen, but i could move it and used it. I could put on climbing shoes and even if it wasn't perfect i decied that i will try and climb. And maybe tomorrow it will be all good, I thought. I have climbed very reserved and precised in demifinals, used almost one foot only, but it was still more than enought for finals (and even provisional 2nd place). After comp, i really didn't felt well and just wanted to go home and sleep... and hope that tomorrow evetythi6ng is going to be better.

Unfortunatley, my wish does not come true and morning didn't bring nothing good. I have spend the midday by the doctors, x-rays and fiziotherapist, but even that he tried with all his best it was not a lot to do.
On this point, i would really like to give a big THNKS to everyone, who stand  this day at my side, were there for me and hoping for best.
But, unfortunatley, i couldn't do a lot, and couldn't imagine to climb in circumstnces like this. I had to cancel the final performance and watch it from the public. I admit, it was not easy at all. But still, i would like to congrats JaIn Kim, Jessica Pilz ad Anak Verhieven to took a place on the podium and Gautier Supper for his first victory infront of his home crowd. Well done! ;)

Interview on national radio

After an really good and historical result fir Slovenian sport climbing, with viceeuropeanchampion Janja Garnbret we were guests in an interview on 1st chanel of national radio.

If you've missed it, but have this luck that you understand slovenian, you can listen it here again ;).

European championship tite and win on 1stWC stagn Chamonix! :D

Well, it seems my feeling and thoughts were not wrong. Before the comp, I knew, i've trained pretty well and felt like physically i am in really good shape.
Al foto: Luka Fonda
But, since last comps has passed pretty much time and every year and comp is a new story. you never know what new  season will bring ... But, ohnestly, i really didn't bother my head too much with those thoughts. I just really really wanted to climb in the way that i believed that i am able to, no matter of the result. Because I know, that I did what i could in preparation time and if i bring this up on wall, i will be satisfied. No matter of what this will mean at the end.
During the comp, regarding maybe also to this aproach and belief in good training, i was kind of more relaxed than previous years. Qualifications started well. I've toped out first route and finished hold before top in 2nd one, due the mistke of choosing wrong foothold sequences. Also in semifinals in clipped the top, among the other 3 girls. I felt pretty good on the routes, holds seems all good and pump was something i didn't really noticed on the way up.  Good feeling to enter the final! :)
Final route was kind a different to me, with very technical part and cosequence of heelhooks in firts half, followed by some crimps and kind of a bouldery/technical climb out at the finish. On observation, it looked very inteesting and nice. I admit, I was little concerned about the start, but i believed, when/if i reach the second part, i will be ok. And yes, it seems somehow exactly like this was later my actuall performance.
Climbing in Chamonix, especially at late night finals in front of huge public and on a great routes is always something special. Atmosphere there is really intense and you can hear crowd cheering and supportong a lot. I admit, i heard cowd cheering loud, when joung and very stong Slovenian teammate Janja Garnbret climbed before me. I knew, she definitely just did something great, what she is really able to do, but could just guess what this could be... It may stressed me out a bit, but suddenly when i arrived under the wall, i have erased all those thoughts and had just a route and my plan in front of me. I have enjoy the way up to the top and clipping the final chain felt really well. But in the same time it gave me strong feeling, that we will see another top. But still, i was kind of calmed, because i know,that i finals i did what i could. And, that I have won Europeanchampion title, first for me, fisfifirst for Slovenia. And feeling was even better to have a strong teammate company at my side!

At the end, it showed up, that the Europeanchampionship title was also an victory on 1st World Cup stage in Chamonix! :)

Well, i have to say, that at the momment i am felling really good and am satisfied with current shape and glad about all preparation done in winter and spring time. And sure, that i just can't wait for next comps and WC stages - next one just in few days in Briancon and 10days later in Imst.

Can't wait, wish me luck! ;)

Team training camps in Mitterdorf and Swiss :)

As usually, few weeks before lead comps starts, with team we are used to spend time abroad, to use the opportunity to climb more on a big wall.

Also this year, it was no exception and we spend some good weekedns in Kletteracademie Mitterdorf and later, just few days before moving on to a first WC&Europeanchampionship in Chmonix, in Swiss.

It is no need to say, that routes were great, we did some nice trainings and had really good time too! :)
all foto: slovenia climbing team

Tanks to Griffig kleterhalle Uster, kletterzentrum Gaswerk, kletterzentrum St.Galen and sure Urs Stoekler for all help and support!

in FINAL on bouldering European championship in Innsbruck - 6th place! :)

Well, this poste is for quitea lot backward, but i still feel like i need to tell something about this event.
Firts of all, maybe you've missed me on some bouldeing WC's this year, but it was a decision, made already at the end of the last year. I decided that I would like to put all attention in preparation to lead season and  based on a provisional scheulde and locations of wc's worldwide, choose to attend one of the biggest evenst's - an boulderin Europeanchampionship in Innsbruck.
all fotos by: Luka Fonda
There, I really just wanted to climb well and at the end were really happy that i could climb in the final among other best 6 girls. Maybe my climb on that comp was really not perfect, but somehoew it was still pretty good. Despite of an input attended to bouldering this spring (almost zero to nothing), it was actually pretty good :).And, even more, we all know how it is in bouldering and that it could be a little 'gamble' from time to time, even podim was not far away...
This comp was just enought and a good marker to me, that i did a pretty good power base for up-comming endurance training and lead season and that if i countinue that way, it can be fun this year! :)