nedelja, 02. avgust 2015

WC Imst - the final ...

I wrote previous post before final was done. Later i just wanted to add final experience, when it is finished. But, I won. Not just place itself, more all the circumstances, emotions and thoughts around it, brought me to a point, that i decided that this final earns a post for itself.
About climbing, I climbed well. I enjoyed every single move of a route. It was another great and interesting masterpiece form route setters, like already yesterday's seminal. Hard and continious. Something what you just desire to get on a comp.
Foto: @sloveniaclimbingteam BY Roman Krajnik 
Even, that i fall actually on almost last move, I ran out of the time few holds before. But, I didn't really care. I was very happy with what I did. Not looking by height on the route or possible medal, but from the fact, that with participation on this comp, i won a battle with myself. The most important one. I won for me, no matter which place I would take at the end of comp.
So, it was very easy to sit down and look for others. I was also really really cheering for other girls, specially Janja, who just showed again an strong performance.
Foto: @sloveniaclimbingteam  by Roman Krajnik 
Team success was accomplished by Domen Skofic's bronze medal, Tjasa Kalan 6th and Urban Primozic 7th place. More than great! :D

Thinking back, actually all day i felt something different.  From morning on, i had a feeling that ankle feels better than previous day(s). Also when i went on the wall for warming up, it seemed like part of pain just went away, ankle felt more flexible and less swollen. It still wasn't tottaly ok, but I felt like I could press more. Well, i still limped when we took a walk down on hill to the presentation of final :(.
Foto: @ifsc
Looking backward, I don't really know what happened. Did a head do some trick for me and push the pain away? Was it kind of a mind trick, or just time brought it's power and ankle was actually healed? I still don't know... Regarding to limping after comp and next day, I suppose the first case happened. But how?(!?) In my mind, I didn't do nothing special. I didn't think about it or set my mind on some special level to do this.
It seems like my head just did it spontaneously for me. Like all the commitment, everyday focus, desire and training would collect it's power together and bring it out when I need the most.
Like something, in what you are/were investing everyday focus, energy, power, will and really live for and mean so much to you would stand at your side and repay for what and how you've been doing in recent years. I am not religious, but if such a carma exist,  I believe in it since now :)

sobota, 01. avgust 2015

WC Imst - qualifications and semifinal ...

When I sit down in a van to took my place on a way to Imst, i had mixed feelings. I was happy, that i am there. I also believed, that i really did all i could in those days. Looking from all aspects - treatment and climbing side, so my 'soul' was clear. All i could do was hoping for the best (health).

I still believed, that if the foot will work, i can fight and try to climb, but if not, i just can't do much in routes. I didn't care so much, what maybe i loose in days without propper training. Because i knew, that with 'may-not-working foot' not even top form can't help.
Foto:@slovenia climbing team by Roman Krajnik
I had started qualifications pretty soon and didn't know much about route. It didn't bother me, because the biggest challange at the momment was to trust to stand on the foot and use it. Climbing was very, very accourd, stiff and uncoordinated. For a momment it looked like, that after almost two weeks i forgot what to do, if i have to use bouth legs... Luckly, i adapted fast. Already on 2nd route conditions were better and I started to trust feet a bit more, clipped the top and was quite happy with the situation. 
Foto: Roman Krajnik 
But it didn't mean nothing at the momment. I knew that the biggest concern is, that i keep my foot cool and calmed down as possible. Because it is only way that it will allow me to use it on this long day for one route more (=not swallow to much that I wouldn't be unable to use climbing shoes again).
Semifinal route was something, that i would usually just run into it and enjeoy hold after hold. This time, i admit, i've been quite struggling from clip to clip. I hated every left foothold, not even mention the heelhoks, tried to forget everthing and say to myself 'everything is ok, just step on it' and fighted furter...
Foto:@the circuit climbing by Eddie Fowke
Somehow, suddely i found myself on last move.Very long and commitment one. Well, i didn't commit at all and fall. Congrats to teammate Janja, who shwed how to do this thing and finished the route! ;)
It was also a great team suces, i think best ever, with 5 members going on to finals! - Janja Garnbret, first time for Tjasa Kalan (who also just missed it for 1place in Briancon), Domen Skofic, Urban Primozic and me! :)

After Briancon

Comming home with injured ankle was not easy. I was upset, because i knew that i was really in a good shape before. But what happend, happened. And i can't do nothing about this fact anymore.
So, pretty fast i realized, that all i can do is, to put all my concers and energy in best treatment possible! I believed, that if the ankle will work, i can go and climb in imst. If not, not even such a brilliant shape wouldn't help me.A
It was easy to stay really focused and optymistcs at the beginning. I thought, ok, one week at most, than i will put my shoes on, do some more training,, catch up everything what i may missed in last week(s) and go to next comp as nothing happened.
All that time, i still climbed. One-foot-only, but I was more than happy with that. Just that I could climb, at least! :D and do a therapies later...

But as a week or even more than 10 days passed and i still didn't saw quite lot of improovement on healing, i admit, that doubuts come into my head. From day to day it was harder to stay focused and believe 100%. In all, healing, my shape, go to Imst...
Thanks to adidas outdoor for a very nice and personal cheering post and letter. In momments like this, i found it very precious. ...
There also come a momment, when i expected  that i will put my shoes on, and i couldn't. Simply couldn't , because foot was to big to squeeze it in. :(
I got pretty upset and for a momment just thought about to pack my stuff and go home. Sit at some corner, stay there for a while and think everything is miserable - don't worry it won't be for a long;). Luckly, i didn't.
In momments like this, i am thankful to have a coach. With a simple  few words "is it really matters if you put this shoe on today?!?", he just put the things in the right way. And i did a good session after too :).
Well, it really didn't matter if i would put shoe on that day. Or even next day and day after. And i didn't. What was importnat was, that i will/would put my shoes on, when need, for a weekend. And even, if i may (may!) don't go to imst, i would still climb and train those days as i do/did. One foot only...
Well, but just the day before leaving to imst, conditions turned out a bit better. I found a shoes, very soft and 3 size bigger than my usually, which i was able to put on. After almost two weeks of using flip-flops, i was finnaly able to put at least something on my foot! And i was happy with it.
Thanks to Lasportiva for nice and fast support and stock me up for a new challange :)