1st place on China's master!

So, as you can see, we have quite tuff and full competition schedule. Just next day after Xining we have moved to another competition, master in Jingsu city, near Shanghai. Weather here was more friendly and warmer than Xining, so we could also enjoy some more days of 'summer'.

Here was also everything very well organized and they really took good care of competitors!Competition were placed near lake, so from isolation you had nice view, but also need to be careful, not to finishing into water :)...

Because this time there were no live stream, i will try to describe a bit more... Competition were split into to parts, first day qualifications and next day finals for best 8 from previous day. Both rounds were made in 'on-sight' format, which i maybe prefer little more. Wall here was 15m height, with slightly overhang at the beginning, following with big overhang/roof and finishing with kind of slab, little similar to Xining. Routes this time were for my opinion perfect and allowed good classification. They were kind of different, maybe more technical and tricky and not (just) endurance-powerful. First day i felt from the top (what didn't happened to me for a long time) and tied place with Dinara (Fahritdinova). Next day i made top and won master, second place went to Eugenia Malamid (who felt from the top) and 3^rd to Dinara. It was also good day for young Slovenian climber Domen Škofic, who took his first (and silver) medal on international adoult competitions :)

So, even that here we had really nice time, I am already excited to move to next place – Mokpo in Korea, where it will next stop of WC competitions, happening on sunday and saturday 20th and 21^st of October.

See you there! (of on IFSC.tv ;) )

Bye, mina (and Slovenia climbing team)

2nd Again :)

New competition, new top and poduim :).

Well, we are already well acclimatized in China, atmosphere here in Xining (Quinghai planetau - 2500m) is different, but nice, weather continental, with cold mornings/evenings and nice sunny days, actually good conditions for climbing.

Ok, now something about the competition. I have to say, that I was satisfied with my performance, especially in qualifications and final. About the semifinals, I can't really say that. My not so good result was also due to the strange route crux, which was fatal for many girls, also for me. But, it was enought for finals! :)

And there was again different story. Route looked nice and climbable, but I didn't want to underestimate it. I have started to climb and everything went smooth and easy. With every move reaching the top seemed more realistic. Finnaly I have clipped the top chain, but about 20 seconds too late for winning. WHY? Me and Johanna both topped out final route, and were also judged at the same height in semifinals. So due to the new rule, if two (or more) climbers are at the same point in all rounds, at the end, time is the judge. Ok, that's the way it is, I am still very happy that I did the route!!! :). 

PS: And even, if I would know about Johanna's top, I probably wouldn't be climbing (much) faster, becase you still needed to finish this route and obviously it still wasn't so easy (if it was, there would probably be more than 2 tops, right?). I think also neither of us climbed really slowly, actually 6:09 or 6:27 seems very reasonabble climbing time for a route this long.

But, what bothers me more is fact, that already for the 3^rd time this year, I have climbed finals good enought to win, but finished 2^nd or 4^th, because of a mistake or lower heihgt in semifinals :S … Yes, it just got me thinking a bit to do something about it! But I think already in cmming day I will have more than one perfect chance to try to change this :).

Our next stop after Xinning will be master in Wujiang, Jiangsu city in China.

Stay tuned and I will update ;)!

FIRST STOP -Xining (Quinghai province, China)

tomorrow qualifications on 10am (our time = 4am Europe)


Qualifications went fine and I toped out bouth routes. Next udate - tomorrow!

ASIA TOUR --- and the youreny has begun :)

When I saw the competition schedule for 2012 and realize that it is going to be 3 chain lead competitions in Asia, I just blinked. I realized, that it is going to be one of the longest competition tour that I have ever done and I got really excited. First of all, just for info, i really like Asia. No joke. All the places where i have been till now – lots of different areas in China, Singaup, Malayzia, Korea and Japan, they all fascinate me and I am always looking forward to come back.
So, after returning from Atlanta I have been home for a good week, nothing more. In this time I have rested, trained and tried to keep good care of myself and stay healthy as much as possible :)

I will update as much as I can, I am looking forward to writing something soon and have some good news! ;)

WC Atlanta - 2nd place and back in the game :)

So, just after a few days after Puurs we have already been in Atlanta for next lead cometition. Qualifications routes were this time maybe little easier but more tehnical, what suited me and brought me 2 tops. The next day in ½ final I did a mistake, but corrected it very good in the longest (but still very nice) final route, that I have never climbed. Based on ½ final results, where I did the mistake, I finished on second place, but was very happy to be on the podium again. Congratulations also to my  teammate Maja for the new podium and of course to Jain Kim for winning this event.

If you have missed 24/7tv live broadcast you can also watch the video from the competion ...

Next time, you will hear from me from Asia, where we are going to 4 competitions – (12.-13.10. Xining (Chn), 16.-17.10. Pudong master (Chn), 20.-21.10. Mogkpo (Kor) and 27.-28.10. Inzai (Jpn).
I am already very excited! See you! ;)

Back to comps :)

WC Puurs ...

 

First and most important of all, what i have to say is – I was so happy to climb again and be able to grab all kind of holds! :)

As you know, i have skipped world championship and during this time, healing my finger and spent some time at local gym, climb what i was able to... So, i felt (quite) ready and very excited to go to next competition! Sure, only after 3 weeks my finger wasn't completely healed, but (very) good enough to climb, even hard routes. I hope, that with performance will everything be quite there as it needs to be and that during this time i didn't loos soo much of resistance and power. But i also knew, that i still need to be little careful with thumb and that i will need to fight even more than usually! :)

 

Because other team was already in Puurs, i took a plane and joined them on thursday. Competition in Puurs is always very good organized and said with one word, perfect!

On the day of competition, standing under this wall brigs me mixed feelings. I was happy to be there, excited to go climb, observed the routes and liked them, but honesty, also kind of unsure what to expect ... And this kind was also my climbing - little too 'secured'. But already in first route, which i have topped out, i got a prove, that everything is almost where it needs to be :). So, go on! :) Next day there was ½ finals and finals. In ½ final i started very good, but later in upper part of route little 'stuck' on some few places and spent some extra power to come trough. But, it was enough for finals :). Route in final was by my opinion easier than ½ final, maybe with some more cruxy parts and top (but i can't say for sure, because i didn't come till there). Well, maybe to sum up that day – i was happy to be 'back' again, not loose too much in this time and satisfied with climbing - specially, that i fight and not give up!

 

So, after competition we packed thing and went back to Slovenia for few days, before leaving on next step on WC's in Atlanta.

(all fotos by: Roman Krajnik)

So, see you there!

Bye, mina

No Paris ...

Yes, it's true …

 

I am not in Paris and I have break myfinger... It happened before ½ final on boulder WC in Munich, during waring up. As i already written in last post, my thumb staied in hole of sloper, when i was trying some moves. First, i didn't realize that somethig is 'really' wrong, sure i felt pain, there were aslo some blood, so i thought 'just some another scratches, i will survive' and went out to climb. Maybe, it was also 'luck' that i got an extra attempt on one boulder and didn't qualify for finals. But, i am not sure, if i would climb that eve...

Next day finger got swollen and stucked on place. So i went on x-rays to check, if everythnig is ok. And sure –it WASN'T! Doctor came to me and said 'girl, that's your picture.little front thumb bone is broken' … You can imagine my face and i get little dizzy for a momment... NOOO, it can't be true! But, it was.

(Thay have also told me, that finger MUST rest and be on place (=not move), because other way, there is high chance that little bone is not going to heal and can go out of wright place. And than there will be problems ... but luckly i didn't get a longete or screw, as they also thought to do)...

So, what to do now? I canceled Arco at first and staied really optimistics that i will climb on WC in Bercy. I have good experience with this wall from Chamonix, nice memories from european championship in Paris 2008 and knew, that i train good and hard for this comp... So, plan was to stay away from holds for a week (even, if i wanted to, i couldn't really grab a hold :S ), do some running and therapies. It accually wasn't so hard for me to wait that week to pass, because i believed, that it will be good after that. I really started climbing (or more moving on the wall) after a week, but there were still pain and i couldn't grab a lot of holds. But, situation was getting visiby better and better from day to day, so i didn't get out of hopes for WC.

There is place for me now ...

Anyway that finger was/ is healling unbelieveble quick, day before deppartment there were still holds, that i couldn't grab, even if i wanted so much. Just before departure the x-ray photo was not so good that i expected :'(. So, after lotsof thingking, me, my coach and doctor decided that it is too risky togo on comp … Because i know, once i would be there i would grab holds, even if there will be pain. And one 'wrong' move and bone could goout of place and i could say goodbye not just to one comp, but ... And because climbing means so much to me, i decided not to risk, because i want to climb also later in my life. And there is no comp worth the helth of my finger, even if this in WCin Paris. Specilally, because everything with healling was/is gettingso good and accually quick, that it is worth to wait for a week and get it really healed. Even, if there is world champipnship:S...

So, i staied home, training well and watching all you guys from web-broadcasting. But, i am looking forward that you will se me lready in Puurs. well, not just tottaly the same 'old' me, but keep it sicret! ;)

Till than, i will cross thingers for all Slovenia climbing team and also other on WC.

And i will also let you know, if there will be some news from here! ;)