petek, 21. december 2012

3rd place on Slovenian national sport awards - best sportsman/woman of year 2012

At end of the year, as it is habit in many countries, also in Slovenia they are choosing best athletes of past year. Although that climbing is not an Olympic sport and it was an Olympic year and many Slovenian's took really good results, i finished on 3rd place by women. I would also like to mention, that this award means really a lot to me! It is another and one more confirmation of really good results in past years and also very nice confirmation of growing recognize of sport climbing.   
Foto: Stanko Gruden
First place went to Slovenian Olympic gold medal winner Urška Žolnir and this year amazing skier Tina Maze. Big congratulations and respect to both! 

At this point i would also like to thank to all, who were anyhow help me on this way and are in anyway involved in this success. To all, with who i had worked or still work with, family and boyfriend who are always there from me and for sure, team with which we spent lots of fun and quality time together - SCT (Slovenia climbing team). And sure, very specially to my coach, Roman Krajnik. Thanks to all! :)
 Foto: Stanko Gruden 
Well i have to admit, that i have enjoy yesterday's evening and being in little different role than i am used to. But, i am also looking forward to find myself on the wall soon! :)

torek, 18. december 2012

Studgart - opening of Climbmax climbing center


So, we also used our trip to Germany to visit new climbing gym in Stuttgart
Foto: Simon Margon
All I can say is, that center is impressive! Boulder area is really bright and open, and on 1200m2 offers climbing on all kinds of verticals, slabs, edges and overhans... Big climbing wall in also really nice and 3D designed and even that wall is not so extremly heihgt (about 14m) it offers good climbing! This time our visit to gym was more relaxed and easy going, so can't wait to come back for some 'real' training soon! :)
On opening evening there was an interesting contest of speed -simultynious climbing and have to admit,  i had really good time and fun!

If you missed it, you can see some impressions here...

petek, 14. december 2012

Adidas Outdoor

Short trip with Slovenia climbing team at the end of the year ...
As you probably know, this year Slovenia climbing team started to cooperate with Adidas outdoor. And because year is coming till end and december is time for things like this, we accepted special invitation from company, to meet each other in personal, discuss about plans and so on ... I have to say, that i was impressed and glad that we had the opportunity to visit place, where everything is coming from (small village Herzogenaurach in Geremany).
At the end, because it is december and we were good all year there were also some 'gifts under Christmas tree' waiting for us :) …

More photos, updates and news are comming in next days ...



ponedeljek, 10. december 2012

Interviews on TV Slovenia and Sport TV...

It is true, that training and competition schulde is way more relaxed than it was last few months, but it doesn't mean that i have less stuff to do... So, you can enjoy my last two interviews ;)

1. TV Slovenia - 'Good morning' show (40:00) (5.12.2012)

2. Sport TV - 'Time-out' (9.12.2012)


In next days it is comming up some more interesting things to do... So, i hope i will find time to blog and report some interesting things soon!

ponedeljek, 03. december 2012

Weekend full of climbing happening – PDK 2120


As every year also this season's laste competiton event (for me) are so called 'climbing days of Kranj', where for 3 days sport hall of  'Zlato Polje' (place of WC 2 weeks ago) literally change into climbing oaza with all day happening and national competition for all categories.

It is also very nice, that young and absolute category have some competitons at same time. And it is really nice to see all those young climbers and also that they can see and come to us :). So, because after world cup i did not have much time to all those, who maybe wanted to come in touch with me, i get on opportunity to make it better this time...

About competition., i really like this one, because evrything is maybe little more relaxed and fun. But still, I have to say, that i had preapare and foucused onced again for the last event(s) of this year. I was very happy to finish already very good lead seasion by top in qulif. and finals! By bouldering climbing wasn't so perfect, but still good enought for very nice finish of year.

So now, competitions for this year are really come till end. Now and will take some deserved rest, but still, be sure, that climbing (or at least it's company) will stay in my everyday's happening!  

Bye, mina

ponedeljek, 26. november 2012

torek, 20. november 2012

Interview with 24/7 tv



Another interview, but this time not just for slovenian-speaking followers ;)


I also have to say, that it was really good and fun, talking and spent some time with this great team, who is following and commentig WC stages during the year! Hope to see you next year too ;) 





ponedeljek, 19. november 2012

An end almost too good to even dream about ...


But, I knew I am able to make it this way! :)

So, after constant good results and competing all year all around the world, the competition circuit came almost to the end. But, there was still last and probably (one of) the most important questions of the year – who will take the lead title of 2012?


I think results are already talking for themselves and there is hardly anything to add ...


EDIT: What i have to say is that it really wasn't easy to climb in this situation. But, i believed in myself, tried to relax as much as possible and enjoy the routes. Until the finals, everything was going quite smooth, but when i started the final route all tension combined and 'hit' me. Hmmm, i wasn't pleased with this felling, but just tried to accept it and climb as normal. But still, during the route i was spending too much energy on quite every move, grabbing holds way too hard and climb on very 'secured' way, what probably costed me a few moves in route. But, it turned out it was enough ...

I knew that the final climb wasn't my best, but for me it was perfect in this particular situation.

Watching Ja-in Kim climb was definitely not easy for me. But at the end, a game is a game and only one can win ...

All congratulations are going also to team mate Maja Vidmar and Momoka Oda, both reached the same height as me in finals, but were placed 3rd and 2nd because of the previous rounds. Also all congratulations Sachi Amma in mens' category for 1st overall lead title! :)

Well, now there will be kind of a long break from the competitions for a few months. But this definitely doesn't mean, that you won't hear from me.  

torek, 13. november 2012

Little interview in slo-media

Here is LINK to some nice interview in slo newspaper. I wish nice reading to all slovenian followers and hope there will be soon some english update :)

ponedeljek, 12. november 2012

Settle down at home :)



Usually i am writing and reporting from competitions, events and places far away, but this time, being at home and do basics things, feels like something special! :)

After all year of travelling and competing around, (what is anyway big satisfaction and pleasure to me), currently i am really happy to be at home. After Asia, i took some time for myself, enjoy life, climbing and company here! :) I also have time to train and climbing again at 'home' gym and after all this time it is funny and fells really good! Well, i also took some time to met friends, went on a coffee, walk around and just enjoy beauty of autumn in Slovenia!

So, this is just a little update, before last up-coming event next weekend, WC in Kranj! You can see, i am doing really well and am looking forward to write to you some news soon! ;)
Bye, mina

torek, 30. oktober 2012

Perfect end of Asia tour - 1st place on WC Inzai! :)

So, we ended our 'Asia competition tour' with last stop in a small city near Tokio, Inzai. As usual for competitions here, everything was really nice organized, and even that wall wasn't so impressive and big as somewhere else. I think route setters did a really nice and interesting job! (ok, this does not include men’s final...)
 
This time, when i finished the final route i was quite sure the previous rounds will decide about the podium again. Ok, but this time, i admit, i really climbed badly in qualifications and especially semifinals. I still don't have a clear idea of what actually happened there...
 

But, the important thing is, in finals (again), i focused and climbed how i believed i am able and prepared right now – well! :)
 
This time maybe luck was a little bit on my side. After 3 times in a row finishing on 2nd place based on climbing in qualifications or semifinals, it turned out that only i finished the route ... Jain Kim also almost did it too, but fell from the top, although she almost held it, but didn't resist the swing. Maja Vidmar also completed this nice podium with a great climb!
 
Also as a team, Slovenia took 2nd place! :)

So, now we're going home and there will be a little break till last WC stage in my home country - Kranj, Slovenia, and i am already looking forward for this nice and classic event! :) Till than, i will have some nice and precious time to rest and prepare myself for this last event.
 
For WC 2012 overall (lead) everything is still open. So it will be judged in Kranj, who will take the 'crown' of the lead WC 2012. With men it will be 'battle' between Ramon and Annma and with girls me and Jain will compare our strength!

Stay tuned and see you in Kranj! :)


torek, 23. oktober 2012

2nd place on WC Mokpo, Korea

Another very successful competition and a great result!

Foto: Heiko Wilhelm


So, our last stop on this 'Asia competition tour' was in Mokpo, nice city, close to the sea in Korea. It was again everything really well organized*, the climbing wall was amazing and I also really liked (hard) routes there.


As I have already mentioned, this time we have had quite hard routes already from the beginning (qualifications), so there were not lot of tops seen in this competition. But I think it is just ok, because everyone got a solid chance to climb, fight and show her/his best! For me, this time, especially at the start, the routes were a little harder. Not just because of the grades, but I have also fought with some health problems. But with every route I felt better, stronger and I think it was also possible to see this in climbing. The second day I finished semifinals almost at the top and in finals again, climbed high enough to win, but based on previous rounds took a silver medal. I'm sorry that there is no height „-“ anymore, which would have brought me gold this time. But, don't get me wrong I am still really satisfied with my climbing in finals and also think that every podium on the world cup competition is a great achievement! And, I think that the most important thing of all of this  is, that I got a confirmation, that I am really well prepared, able to climb really good and … every time closer :)


This time, win went to Korea's climber Jain Kim, who showed really nice and good climbing and to Dinara Fahratdinova (3rd place), who took her first medal – congratulations to both!

So, in those days we have already moved to Japan, where it will be 3rd (and last) WC competition of this 'tour'. Currently we are placed somewhere in suburb of Tokyo, climbing, chilling and having fun untill next competition!

See you soon! (or on www.ifsc.-tv.com)
Bye, mina

*except warming up-zone, but this is another story...

četrtek, 18. oktober 2012

1st place on China's master!

So, as you can see, we have quite tuff and full competition schedule. Just next day after Xining we have moved to another competition, master in Jingsu city, near Shanghai. Weather here was more friendly and warmer than Xining, so we could also enjoy some more days of 'summer'.

Here was also everything very well organized and they really took good care of competitors!Competition were placed near lake, so from isolation you had nice view, but also need to be careful, not to finishing into water :)...

Because this time there were no live stream, i will try to describe a bit more... Competition were split into to parts, first day qualifications and next day finals for best 8 from previous day. Both rounds were made in 'on-sight' format, which i maybe prefer little more. Wall here was 15m height, with slightly overhang at the beginning, following with big overhang/roof and finishing with kind of slab, little similar to Xining. Routes this time were for my opinion perfect and allowed good classification. They were kind of different, maybe more technical and tricky and not (just) endurance-powerful. First day i felt from the top (what didn't happened to me for a long time) and tied place with Dinara (Fahritdinova). Next day i made top and won master, second place went to Eugenia Malamid (who felt from the top) and 3rd to Dinara. It was also good day for young Slovenian climber Domen Škofic, who took his first (and silver) medal on international adoult competitions :)

So, even that here we had really nice time, I am already excited to move to next place – Mokpo in Korea, where it will next stop of WC competitions, happening on sunday and saturday 20th and 21st of October.


See you there! (of on IFSC.tv ;) )
Bye, mina (and Slovenia climbing team)

ponedeljek, 15. oktober 2012

2nd Again :)


New competition, new top and poduim :).

Well, we are already well acclimatized in China, atmosphere here in Xining (Quinghai planetau - 2500m) is different, but nice, weather continental, with cold mornings/evenings and nice sunny days, actually good conditions for climbing.



Ok, now something about the competition. I have to say, that I was satisfied with my performance, especially in qualifications and final. About the semifinals, I can't really say that. My not so good result was also due to the strange route crux, which was fatal for many girls, also for me. But, it was enought for finals! :)
And there was again different story. Route looked nice and climbable, but I didn't want to underestimate it. I have started to climb and everything went smooth and easy. With every move reaching the top seemed more realistic. Finnaly I have clipped the top chain, but about 20 seconds too late for winning. WHY? Me and Johanna both topped out final route, and were also judged at the same height in semifinals. So due to the new rule, if two (or more) climbers are at the same point in all rounds, at the end, time is the judge. Ok, that's the way it is, I am still very happy that I did the route!!! :). 





PS: And even, if I would know about Johanna's top, I probably wouldn't be climbing (much) faster, becase you still needed to finish this route and obviously it still wasn't so easy (if it was, there would probably be more than 2 tops, right?). I think also neither of us climbed really slowly, actually 6:09 or 6:27 seems very reasonabble climbing time for a route this long.

But, what bothers me more is fact, that already for the 3rd time this year, I have climbed finals good enought to win, but finished 2nd or 4th, because of a mistake or lower heihgt in semifinals :S … Yes, it just got me thinking a bit to do something about it! But I think already in cmming day I will have more than one perfect chance to try to change this :).

Our next stop after Xinning will be master in Wujiang, Jiangsu city in China.
Stay tuned and I will update ;)!

četrtek, 11. oktober 2012

FIRST STOP -Xining (Quinghai province, China)


tomorrow qualifications on 10am (our time = 4am Europe)


Qualifications went fine and I toped out bouth routes. Next udate - tomorrow!

ASIA TOUR --- and the youreny has begun :)


When I saw the competition schedule for 2012 and realize that it is going to be 3 chain lead competitions in Asia, I just blinked. I realized, that it is going to be one of the longest competition tour that I have ever done and I got really excited. First of all, just for info, i really like Asia. No joke. All the places where i have been till now – lots of different areas in China, Singaup, Malayzia, Korea and Japan, they all fascinate me and I am always looking forward to come back.
So, after returning from Atlanta I have been home for a good week, nothing more. In this time I have rested, trained and tried to keep good care of myself and stay healthy as much as possible :)

I will update as much as I can, I am looking forward to writing something soon and have some good news! ;)

WC Atlanta - 2nd place and back in the game :)




So, just after a few days after Puurs we have already been in Atlanta for next lead cometition. Qualifications routes were this time maybe little easier but more tehnical, what suited me and brought me 2 tops. The next day in ½ final I did a mistake, but corrected it very good in the longest (but still very nice) final route, that I have never climbed. Based on ½ final results, where I did the mistake, I finished on second place, but was very happy to be on the podium again. Congratulations also to my  teammate Maja for the new podium and of course to Jain Kim for winning this event.



If you have missed 24/7tv live broadcast you can also watch the video from the competion ...


Next time, you will hear from me from Asia, where we are going to 4 competitions – (12.-13.10. Xining (Chn), 16.-17.10. Pudong master (Chn), 20.-21.10. Mogkpo (Kor) and 27.-28.10. Inzai (Jpn).
I am already very excited! See you! ;)

sreda, 26. september 2012

Back to comps :)

WC Puurs ...
 
First and most important of all, what i have to say isI was so happy to climb again and be able to grab all kind of holds! :)
As you know, i have skipped world championship and during this time, healing my finger and spent some time at local gym, climb what i was able to... So, i felt (quite) ready and very excited to go to next competition! Sure, only after 3 weeks my finger wasn't completely healed, but (very) good enough to climb, even hard routes. I hope, that with performance will everything be quite there as it needs to be and that during this time i didn't loos soo much of resistance and power. But i also knew, that i still need to be little careful with thumb and that i will need to fight even more than usually! :)
 
Because other team was already in Puurs, i took a plane and joined them on thursday. Competition in Puurs is always very good organized and said with one word, perfect!
On the day of competition, standing under this wall brigs me mixed feelings. I was happy to be there, excited to go climb, observed the routes and liked them, but honesty, also kind of unsure what to expect ... And this kind was also my climbing - little too 'secured'. But already in first route, which i have topped out, i got a prove, that everything is almost where it needs to be :). So, go on! :) Next day there was ½ finals and finals. In ½ final i started very good, but later in upper part of route little 'stuck' on some few places and spent some extra power to come trough. But, it was enough for finals :). Route in final was by my opinion easier than ½ final, maybe with some more cruxy parts and top (but i can't say for sure, because i didn't come till there). Well, maybe to sum up that day – i was happy to be 'back' again, not loose too much in this time and satisfied with climbing - specially, that i fight and not give up!
 
So, after competition we packed thing and went back to Slovenia for few days, before leaving on next step on WC's in Atlanta.
(all fotos by: Roman Krajnik)
So, see you there!
Bye, mina

četrtek, 13. september 2012

No Paris ...


Yes, it's true …

 
I am not in Paris and I have break myfinger... It happened before ½ final on boulder WC in Munich, during waring up. As i already written in last post, my thumb staied in hole of sloper, when i was trying some moves. First, i didn't realize that somethig is 'really' wrong, sure i felt pain, there were aslo some blood, so i thought 'just some another scratches, i will survive' and went out to climb. Maybe, it was also 'luck' that i got an extra attempt on one boulder and didn't qualify for finals. But, i am not sure, if i would climb that eve...

Next day finger got swollen and stucked on place. So i went on x-rays to check, if everythnig is ok. And sure –it WASN'T! Doctor came to me and said 'girl, that's your picture.little front thumb bone is broken' … You can imagine my face and i get little dizzy for a momment... NOOO, it can't be true! But, it was.

(Thay have also told me, that finger MUST rest and be on place (=not move), because other way, there is high chance that little bone is not going to heal and can go out of wright place. And than there will be problems ... but luckly i didn't get a longete or screw, as they also thought to do)...

So, what to do now? I canceled Arco at first and staied really optimistics that i will climb on WC in Bercy. I have good experience with this wall from Chamonix, nice memories from european championship in Paris 2008 and knew, that i train good and hard for this comp... So, plan was to stay away from holds for a week (even, if i wanted to, i couldn't really grab a hold :S ), do some running and therapies. It accually wasn't so hard for me to wait that week to pass, because i believed, that it will be good after that. I really started climbing (or more moving on the wall) after a week, but there were still pain and i couldn't grab a lot of holds. But, situation was getting visiby better and better from day to day, so i didn't get out of hopes for WC.
There is place for me now ...

Anyway that finger was/ is healling unbelieveble quick, day before deppartment there were still holds, that i couldn't grab, even if i wanted so much. Just before departure the x-ray photo was not so good that i expected :'(. So, after lotsof thingking, me, my coach and doctor decided that it is too risky togo on comp … Because i know, once i would be there i would grab holds, even if there will be pain. And one 'wrong' move and bone could goout of place and i could say goodbye not just to one comp, but ... And because climbing means so much to me, i decided not to risk, because i want to climb also later in my life. And there is no comp worth the helth of my finger, even if this in WCin Paris. Specilally, because everything with healling was/is gettingso good and accually quick, that it is worth to wait for a week and get it really healed. Even, if there is world champipnship:S...

So, i staied home, training well and watching all you guys from web-broadcasting. But, i am looking forward that you will se me lready in Puurs. well, not just tottaly the same 'old' me, but keep it sicret! ;)

Till than, i will cross thingers for all Slovenia climbing team and also other on WC.

And i will also let you know, if there will be some news from here! ;)

četrtek, 30. avgust 2012

Munich bouldering ...

Munich – last boulderingWC in 2012

It pass quite long timesince last bouldering WC and climbing boulder for me. In this time, i have been totally concentrated on lead climbing, but it doesn't mean, that i have forget how to climb boulders :)

I have good memories for last 2 years competing in Munich – really nice competition area and atmosphere for climbing, good boudlers and also good results. So, i was excited to come here again this year!

In qualifications i did all boulder, 3 flashes and some more (stupid) attempts on last one, but still good enough for provisional 5th place.

For next day, i have expected quite harder boulders and also warmed up this way … but just around 15minutes before start my thumb stucked in hole of sloper when i was trying some nice and hard moves :S …situation wasn't nice, but i tried to forget that it happened, focused on competition and boulders, which were waiting for me outside.
 (well, on this i still need to do something :) ...

Except 'jump-based' boulder i have flashed all other 3 easily :) But, because of 'wrong start' on last one, i got an extra attempt, so it just wasn't enough for finals :SSS . So, i have missed last WC finals this year, finishing on 8th place.

Result maybe really don't seems the best, but for me, this competition was still a good sign for upcoming events. I was quite satisfied with climbing and prove to myself, that i am still strong able to climb boulders on high level and i also believe, fight for best places.

What's next? Will see ... but probably you will here my next update from Paris! ;)

nedelja, 12. avgust 2012

World cup Imst - 2nd place

Since last WC in Briancon it has already pass few weeks, but for me it seems just like a little longer and good week. I have spend this time mostly with team, climbing home or somewhere abroad … So, i admit, i was very excited to go to Imst! Also wall here is quite unique, very high and overhanging and it just imagine an extra challenge to me. I wanted to get on the top of this wall and enjoy nice view as many times as possible :)

This time climbing schedule was different than usually, with mostly all happening on friday and finals on saturday. On friday we started already in morning with two qualification routes and ½ final in evening. In first route i have started as second. Not so used on early starting i have started climbing little unsure, but felt more relaxed and easy going from move to move and top the first route. Also second line was pleasure to climb and clip the top …

Just after few hours we started with ½ final. Route looked really nice, quite logical and long … and i admit, looong was also time in isolation zone. But after 25 climbers it was time to go. This time, very similar like in ½ final in Chamonix i found out route quite easy and 'walked' to the top again! Satisfied with good climbing i went home to rest and prepare for next day's FINALS!

 
In finals first started boys, so i couldn't watch them climbing :( , but still congratulation to Jorg Verghoeven for win! … After them it was time for women’s final! I have warmed up and waited for my turn ... This time i didn't feel so comfortable on wall like day before, did couple of little mistake trough the route and sure, get more and more tired on the way up. I didn't reach the top, but i am still quite satisfied, that i have tried my best. Congratulations to Momoka Oda for her first win and sure, great performance!

Now, there will be 2 weeks break till next event – boulder WC in Munich! See you there! ;)

nedelja, 29. julij 2012

Little update from Swiss

... so, we went there to train! :) unfortunately not all team, but still very good company – our coach Roman Krajnik, 4 boys from Škofja Loka (Urban, Jure, Sergej, Martin) and me.

First day we climbed at Gaswerk, reall ynice climbing center in Zurich. I have been here already for few times, but i am always fascinated over this center – 18 meters height wall and plenty of nice and good routes! Even, that there are not so little of hard stuff (around 8b), after am & pm training we didn't almost nothing left for next time! :)
It looked like our boys maybe didn'thave enough and tried also 'self-belying' routes, where we made one funny video (commin soon - sorry) . and because there were only 4 'places' on this system and they looked more excited over this, i resigned them 'my' place :).
Than we continued our trip next day with training in Bern. Wall there is shorter, but there are still plenty of different, but very good and interesting routes. Shorter, harder and more intensive lines were this time maybe little easier for boys, but even more challenging for me! :)



Today we visit St.Galen, again another really nice and high wall. We climbed till we didn't have enought, went on nice dinner and drive home...

Tomorrow, i am not sure what's on plan, but i am sure it will be another interesting day!

Stay tuned :)

PS: currently some more pictures you can see here, but more are comming in next days ;)

EDIT:
So, next day was different from others ... it was - rest day! we spent it to go to Zurich downtown for see-sighting and little walk, watch movie and just enjoyed the day...

We finished our (too short) trip with stop in classic training place in Innsbruck tivoli. As usually there were plenty of climbers/competitors and bunch of hard and nice routes. At the end of the day i was little sad that we didn't stay there for some days more... but anyway, it was a really nice trip, with good training and company! now, we're going home to rest and prepare for next stop - world cup in Imst! :)

sreda, 25. julij 2012

Briancon




After Chamonix I went home with team... It was maybe little sad, because a lot of slovenians (and also my boyfriend) and other teams stay there, but i have also loooved to go home, rest well and train a little bit on 'my wall' in Škofja Loka and coach (Roman Krajnik;). Oh, and one day also Kleme Bečan come to visit us :)







For Briancon I had good memories from last year, where I was 2nd. But this year, i admit, my goal was same as a week ago ... In qualifications I found out, that wall and routes are in general more vertical and tehnical and it s better to climb slowlier. Ok, good that I have found out this in 1st line and know for others :) so, 2nd qualification was easier for me, even that there were less tops...

Next day it was day of ½ final and final. I sleept reallllly very well … and my phone wake-up clock did not ring ... –> oh, ****, i' ve almost sleept too long!!! Good, that i have this nice habbit, that i always, every evening, preapare all the stuff and things for next day :). so, i just woke up, grabbed my stuff and went into isolation zone – no hurry, there was still 30minutes left – uhhh ...

In ½ final, route look quite tricky, but ok. I saw that there all few moves, which you have to decide and go, but when i come to that point i just waited little too much. But, i did the move and pass trought the route to another crux. There I took wrong consequence on holds and it caused me better result/top out the route. I said to myself - 'ok, i go to rest and still have another chance to make better in final'!!! In evening I was sure in this thought, fell really good and strong, but it turned out this thought afer ½ final was just a unuseful wish – route too easy to correct anything, 5 tops and finish on 4th place in this comp for me...



Ok, that's it. Now, i will go home, rest maybe for a day or two and than go to train in Swiss with team! - Can't wait for that!!!! :D

Chamonix and Braincon! :D



Even that I have already copmpete this year quite a lot and make some good results in bouldering (like 1st and 2nd place in Log and Wienna), going to first comp in Chamonix was little exciting. It was more than ½ year since Barcelona (last lead WC in 2011) and I didn't know what exactly to expect. I just knew, that I have train well, am well preapared and believed that i am able to climb routes, which they will set up. Everything else was not in my mind...



Sure, on comp, it was nice to meet all people, talk for a while and so on... But, i wantd to stay foucused and climb as i know i am able to... And i think i did … In qualification, everything went well and i have toped bouth routes. Next day started with ½ final. On observation i look up the route very carefully and make a plan – hands, feet, clipping, possible rest(s) and different hand consequences, if something would m,aybe suoprise me ... But i said to myself – 'you've climb a lot of routes like this last month on big wall ... it's just one more, you can top it'. And it turned out, i was wright! So, it come up to FINAL – weather was 'standar' for Chamonix – rain as every year since i remember myself competing here in final (2008). Route looked little harder tahn ½ final, but still very doable. And i admit, my goal was same – top, nothnig else. Because of rain holds were kind of 'wet', what little surprised me, but i tried not to bother (too) much. Anyway, it was same for everyone, you just needed to be little more careful. And slow ... during the route i climbed well and smooth, i didn't took a lot of rests, but i felt good and didn't relly need them. But at the end i just wanted to grab a hold in right, but didn't stuck it ... It was enought for first victory, which i am very happy about, but stil, regred i didn't top out the route. Congradulations also for other two girls on poduim, who also climbd really well – Kim Jain and Momoka Oda! (and I thnik we'll see them on podium this year definetly some more) …




torek, 24. julij 2012

After Bulder ...



After bouldering worldcups and specially world cup in Boulder I have put some more intention to lead/route climbing. Sure, i've been doing route climbing already all year before, but just between boulder comps it is hard to keep or even increase pure 'lead' indurance. But, i had all mounth for this – and I think i use it really good! :) at the beginning it was maybe not so 'fun', but if you like train hard and felling of geting pumped, you would like it as much as i did! :)




It was also a month of trips and training abroad with team – we've been in Mitterndorf, Imst, Wienna and Mitterndorf again, training, running, eating and having fun together! And I think we all did really god job … but, for prove i will have to wait a bit, till - ...