sobota, 22. marec 2014

CWIF 2014 and climbing in Sheffield

I have wanted to attend the Climbing Works International Festival at Sheffield already for couple of years. This year, I finally got the opportunity to climb at this special event.

The competition itself is made by special 'open' qualifications format. Everyone can choose and climb 30 qualifications boulders within a 3.5 hours time limit with  3 attempts available for each. Results are calculated by achieved points. The top  20 female and 20 male climbers continue into the next round. The semifinal and final is made by classic IFSC competition system (4 problems, with isolation and 5min/4min+ time limit).

I really enjoyed the qualification format. The boulders were very nice, a lot of technical, slabby and overall interesting climbs (set by local setter including Percy Bishton and others)... Also climbing the problems together with other team mates was great and really fun! But still, there was a bit of pressure with only '3 tries'. It's really interesting how sometimes little restriction like this can create a big change in your climbing. First go, you put (or try to put) out your maximum. Ok, if it doesn't go or you slip, you still have another try... But then, only one chance is left. Now, you HAVE to do it! Otherwise, it's gone ... :( While it is stressful, I really like the point of system and have found it very valuable for competition and mental training. Definitely something to try and do more of :)

Next day it was time for semifinals and evening finals, and a switch back into 'classic' competition system. Warm up, prepare and set myself back into 'competition' mood, but for first time in this year - uhhhh :)  I was excited, but kind of worried about keeping it all together. So, in the semi-finals I did not start really well, but managed to catch up in the later problems, and got into evening finals with 3 tops in 5 attempts. It was also really close for Katja Kadič and Domen Škofic, who both showed strong climbing and good performances, but because of some little mistakes and too many tries unfortunately just missed the finals.

Evening finals went pretty well for me. I was happy to compete again and to have a chance to fight for CWIF's crown of 2014 among other 5 strong girls and cool looking problems. At the end, I finished all 4 problems, just missed the win in last boulder while spending too many tries at first move. But still, I was satisfied with my performance and feelings during comp and climb.

Congratulations to everyone for their strong performance and 3rd CWIF's title to Shuana Coxsey and for 3rd place to another Mina, Mina Leslie-Wujastyk. In the mens category, the win went to Tito Caleyron with 4 flashes - congratulations!

After the comp, we did not head home, but stayed for another couple of days. We spent a day or two climbing outside on the local classics and great gritstone of the Peak District. I did not try anything very hard, but it was a very good experience and am definitely looking forward to come back soon and also try some harder stuff there.

all (and more) foto at: Slovenija climbing team FB page (here and here)

Other days we spent at the Climbing Works gym, training together with other teams (Netherlands, UK, ...) on problems set especially for us. It was very pleasant experience and for sure, good training.

At this point, I would like to thank the gym, the route setters, coaches and all others involved for this great opportunity and climbing week! :)

New Slovenia climbing team gym and first training camp

At the beginning of March, we received a new and incredible gift - our own, new and very good Slovenia climbing team training gym! :D
It is the result of the work of few a committed people and of course, strong sponsor support. So, right away, I would like to thank to all who made this project possible and helped to realize it.

Soon after opening it was time to put the  gym to a 'serious test' with team training camp week. This time, thanks to the new gym, we didn't need to go abroad, but could enjoy all the benefits of hard training and working out together, just a few kilometers away from home. I have to say, that I enjoyed this training camp very much, maybe most of all the that I have ever done (which is quite a lot).

I have recognized the benefits of bouldering gyms in past years, when after some time at such gyms my performance and climbing on boulders usually made a big leap in a few days. Sometimes just playing on larger amounts of already set boulders was enough to get a feeling of 'open' and high wall, bouldering on slabs or other similar styles to competition walls and conditions.
I was definitely very pleased when I got an opportunity to have it near home. And not only this, but also to have chance to cooperate with great coaches and setters who know how and what to do and have desire to help and share it with you. With working on boulders, sometimes set specially for you, you can definetly target your weaknesses and points which you may work on. Really incredible achievement for improvement! I am also very happy for all youngsters, who will have chance to enjoy it right from the start. I just hope we all will use it and keep it at its best! :)

All (and more foto) from here: Slovenija climbing team FB page (part 1 and 2)
I am really looking forward to spending many nice, quality climbing and fun days at this place. Can't wait! :) 

petek, 21. februar 2014

Training in January, February, ...

After I came back from Jordan I did not hesitate to start climbing and training back on plastic again. The first few days were interesting and quite hard, but I adapted easily and started to enjoy  working out every day and made progress soon.
at 'DEŠ' - photo by Marko Bratina
Most of the time, I spent with my coach (Roman Krajnik) in Škofa Loka. I also climbed with the Slovenija climbing team, meeting twice per week at different places and gyms all around Slovenija to train together. It is really a pleasure to try hard with good company, nice routes, walls and people who know what to do! :)
Some of the places we were at, included Climbing Center Ljubljana, UrbnRoof, Prestranek, at Domen Škofic's place, DEŠ, ...
https://www.facebook.com/sloclimbers
more fotos at: Slovenija climbing team FB-page

In-between I also spent some days at Plusclimbing gym in Sežana, appeared on a talk show on national TV, received a reward for best sportswoman of my region and did some other not-just-climbing stuff :)







petek, 14. februar 2014

Jordan project video

Short video clip from Jordan exploring and climbing ... Enjoy! :) - LINK

https://vimeo.com/86175078

About: ''adidas athlete Klemen Bečan and his crew spent December and January climbing and bolting new routes in Jordan. They visited Wadi Rum on the south where repeated routes and tried to find new lines. They found them, so now you can enjoy there even harder routes. They also visited areas in the north, where helped locals climbers developt new climbing area near Ajloun. They made 16 new routes and one of them is also new hardest route in Jordan - Same same but different, 8c.''

ponedeljek, 20. januar 2014

Outdoor experience and climbing in Jordan

For last 5 or 6 years I have been spending a week or two around New Year's climbing outdoors and exploring different places and crags. For the first few years, I have chosen Spain, but recently I am more interested in new, more foreign or 'unknown' locations.

My main purpose is to visit the place, meet with locals, share my knowledge, experiences and knowledge about climbing. I also try local routes hoping to promote the place and help the local community to develop its own climbing and culture.
I'm doing this to make a switch from competitions, to experience new places, adventure, and all the kinds of happiness that climbing, travelling and being outdoors can offer . I visited this country two years ago for the lead world cup in Amman (2011). I have very nice memories from this trip, not just because of winning the comp in Climbat gym, but also the unforgettable experience of visiting Petra and seeing so many cliffs and the climbing potential in this area.
I really liked the atmosphere of this country and how kind, open and generous people are there. I am happy to say that my first impression was not wrong and I am glad, that I got the opportunity to join Klemen Bečan (plus his wife, photographer and my boyfriend) on a second trip in Jordan.
We all have experienced many wonderful things that climbing and spending time outdoors can offer you (and also, how adidas outdoor collection can make it much easier and comfortable :P ).
We spent the first week of our trip in the southern desert area 'Wadi Rum'. This climbing place offers an unimaginable amount of climbing with much potential for new routes, from trad to sport multi-pitch routes, sport climbing and bouldering on all kinds of rock (from sandstone to granite).
Here we did some all-around exploring bouldering, and exploring the place and its uniqe environment. We (Klemen) also bolted and did (FA) of one sport route on granite and we found and climbed the hardest sport multi-pitch route in the area (Glory 8a+; 6a,6c,8a(+),7c,6c), I also tried 'trad' climbing (-it was the first time for me and I really enjoyed this experience!) and much more .. Sleeping in the desert, driving with 4x4 Jeeps, cooking on an open fire and talking with the very friendly and open local Bedouins is just something more to add.Later we moved further north, to the capital city Amman and the climbing areas around Ajlun (ca. 1 hour driving from Amman). We were kindly accepted and hosted overnight at the local bouldering gym and main meeting point for hiking, canyoning and other outdoor activities in this area, the office of Tropical Desert Trips (thank you Hakim Tamimi :).
There are many sport climbing areas around Ajlun, some of them are already bolted and cleaned, and many more are still waiting for that. We wanted to do some sport climbing, bolt new routes, explore the area and connect with Amman's sport climbing community to share the experience, knowledge and our views about climbing.
We spend many days outdoor, sleeping in the cave, bolting, cleaning and climbing during the day . (OK, I have to admit, that I did not bolt my own new route, but Klemen, Anja and Luka did so).
We worked on bolting and climbing from sun-up to sunset. When we were done it was time to build a fire to prepare tea and our dinner, as we have learned from the locals ... I really want to give a big thanks to the local people for helping us during this stay with bringing water, fresh fruit, bread, batteries other supplies during our stay in Ajlun.

At the end of our stay, we left the area with a 'little new crag', some projects and also some new routes. Maybe I should mention also a very nice new line, Jordan Express (8b) of which I did the 2nd ascent (and Klemen the FA)...

The rock in the north is very solid and high quality, the routes are very well bolted and offer sport climbing experiences and challenges for all levels of climbers. I think that here in Jordan everyone can find a challenge and a new unforgettable outdoor experience! :) At the moment, as I am writing this, I am already) beginning my training and preparation for the new season ... So, there will be more news and updates coming for sure :)

torek, 07. januar 2014

Different december


After compeitions I have decided to do some climbing rest and take time for other, different things and activitis, for which I do not have time, chance or will during other part of year.
(enjoy winter sun and rock at Mišja peč, Slovenija; foto:Luka Fonda)
Don't get me wrong – I LOVE climbing, training, competing and travelling around, but changes are something, that I am always open and excited for! :)
So, I used nice and warm (winter days) for climbing outdoor at local crags (Mišja peč), give some advices and trainings to youth climbers at Plus-climbing gym, attended opening ceremony of first Slovenian big wall climbing center in Ljubljana and many other...
I have also visit my hometown and spend some very precious, relaxed and unforgettble time with my parents, challenged myself by cooking, baking and other activities similar to this ...

ponedeljek, 02. december 2013

48. PDK – last competition event of 2013

As every year, I have finished competition year with 3 days of national competitions in lead and boulder.
It was overall very nice event, full of happening. Beside of climbing competition for all categories, there were many side activities, presentations and shows available for visitors. For me, it was already maybe a little bit more relaxed comp as I am used to, but I have really enjoyed every boulder and route. Maybe, because I knew, they are probably last for me in this year :'(.

After this event, I will took some rest and focus on other things. But, soon in January, I am coming back to plastic and training again!
all photos from:PDK
Until than, I am sure there will be many events and interesting things to do ...
So, see you soon! :)