Even that I have already copmpete this year quite a lot and make some good results in bouldering (like 1st and 2nd place in Log and Wienna), going to first comp in Chamonix was little exciting. It was more than ½ year since Barcelona (last lead WC in 2011) and I didn't know what exactly to expect. I just knew, that I have train well, am well preapared and believed that i am able to climb routes, which they will set up. Everything else was not in my mind...
Sure, on comp, it was nice to meet all people, talk for a while and so on... But, i wantd to stay foucused and climb as i know i am able to... And i think i did … In qualification, everything went well and i have toped bouth routes. Next day started with ½ final. On observation i look up the route very carefully and make a plan – hands, feet, clipping, possible rest(s) and different hand consequences, if something would m,aybe suoprise me ... But i said to myself – 'you've climb a lot of routes like this last month on big wall ... it's just one more, you can top it'. And it turned out, i was wright! So, it come up to FINAL – weather was 'standar' for Chamonix – rain as every year since i remember myself competing here in final (2008). Route looked little harder tahn ½ final, but still very doable. And i admit, my goal was same – top, nothnig else. Because of rain holds were kind of 'wet', what little surprised me, but i tried not to bother (too) much. Anyway, it was same for everyone, you just needed to be little more careful. And slow ... during the route i climbed well and smooth, i didn't took a lot of rests, but i felt good and didn't relly need them. But at the end i just wanted to grab a hold in right, but didn't stuck it ... It was enought for first victory, which i am very happy about, but stil, regred i didn't top out the route. Congradulations also for other two girls on poduim, who also climbd really well – Kim Jain and Momoka Oda! (and I thnik we'll see them on podium this year definetly some more) …
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