nedelja, 29. julij 2012

Little update from Swiss

... so, we went there to train! :) unfortunately not all team, but still very good company – our coach Roman Krajnik, 4 boys from Škofja Loka (Urban, Jure, Sergej, Martin) and me.

First day we climbed at Gaswerk, reall ynice climbing center in Zurich. I have been here already for few times, but i am always fascinated over this center – 18 meters height wall and plenty of nice and good routes! Even, that there are not so little of hard stuff (around 8b), after am & pm training we didn't almost nothing left for next time! :)
It looked like our boys maybe didn'thave enough and tried also 'self-belying' routes, where we made one funny video (commin soon - sorry) . and because there were only 4 'places' on this system and they looked more excited over this, i resigned them 'my' place :).
Than we continued our trip next day with training in Bern. Wall there is shorter, but there are still plenty of different, but very good and interesting routes. Shorter, harder and more intensive lines were this time maybe little easier for boys, but even more challenging for me! :)



Today we visit St.Galen, again another really nice and high wall. We climbed till we didn't have enought, went on nice dinner and drive home...

Tomorrow, i am not sure what's on plan, but i am sure it will be another interesting day!

Stay tuned :)

PS: currently some more pictures you can see here, but more are comming in next days ;)

EDIT:
So, next day was different from others ... it was - rest day! we spent it to go to Zurich downtown for see-sighting and little walk, watch movie and just enjoyed the day...

We finished our (too short) trip with stop in classic training place in Innsbruck tivoli. As usually there were plenty of climbers/competitors and bunch of hard and nice routes. At the end of the day i was little sad that we didn't stay there for some days more... but anyway, it was a really nice trip, with good training and company! now, we're going home to rest and prepare for next stop - world cup in Imst! :)

sreda, 25. julij 2012

Briancon




After Chamonix I went home with team... It was maybe little sad, because a lot of slovenians (and also my boyfriend) and other teams stay there, but i have also loooved to go home, rest well and train a little bit on 'my wall' in Škofja Loka and coach (Roman Krajnik;). Oh, and one day also Kleme Bečan come to visit us :)







For Briancon I had good memories from last year, where I was 2nd. But this year, i admit, my goal was same as a week ago ... In qualifications I found out, that wall and routes are in general more vertical and tehnical and it s better to climb slowlier. Ok, good that I have found out this in 1st line and know for others :) so, 2nd qualification was easier for me, even that there were less tops...

Next day it was day of ½ final and final. I sleept reallllly very well … and my phone wake-up clock did not ring ... –> oh, ****, i' ve almost sleept too long!!! Good, that i have this nice habbit, that i always, every evening, preapare all the stuff and things for next day :). so, i just woke up, grabbed my stuff and went into isolation zone – no hurry, there was still 30minutes left – uhhh ...

In ½ final, route look quite tricky, but ok. I saw that there all few moves, which you have to decide and go, but when i come to that point i just waited little too much. But, i did the move and pass trought the route to another crux. There I took wrong consequence on holds and it caused me better result/top out the route. I said to myself - 'ok, i go to rest and still have another chance to make better in final'!!! In evening I was sure in this thought, fell really good and strong, but it turned out this thought afer ½ final was just a unuseful wish – route too easy to correct anything, 5 tops and finish on 4th place in this comp for me...



Ok, that's it. Now, i will go home, rest maybe for a day or two and than go to train in Swiss with team! - Can't wait for that!!!! :D

Chamonix and Braincon! :D



Even that I have already copmpete this year quite a lot and make some good results in bouldering (like 1st and 2nd place in Log and Wienna), going to first comp in Chamonix was little exciting. It was more than ½ year since Barcelona (last lead WC in 2011) and I didn't know what exactly to expect. I just knew, that I have train well, am well preapared and believed that i am able to climb routes, which they will set up. Everything else was not in my mind...



Sure, on comp, it was nice to meet all people, talk for a while and so on... But, i wantd to stay foucused and climb as i know i am able to... And i think i did … In qualification, everything went well and i have toped bouth routes. Next day started with ½ final. On observation i look up the route very carefully and make a plan – hands, feet, clipping, possible rest(s) and different hand consequences, if something would m,aybe suoprise me ... But i said to myself – 'you've climb a lot of routes like this last month on big wall ... it's just one more, you can top it'. And it turned out, i was wright! So, it come up to FINAL – weather was 'standar' for Chamonix – rain as every year since i remember myself competing here in final (2008). Route looked little harder tahn ½ final, but still very doable. And i admit, my goal was same – top, nothnig else. Because of rain holds were kind of 'wet', what little surprised me, but i tried not to bother (too) much. Anyway, it was same for everyone, you just needed to be little more careful. And slow ... during the route i climbed well and smooth, i didn't took a lot of rests, but i felt good and didn't relly need them. But at the end i just wanted to grab a hold in right, but didn't stuck it ... It was enought for first victory, which i am very happy about, but stil, regred i didn't top out the route. Congradulations also for other two girls on poduim, who also climbd really well – Kim Jain and Momoka Oda! (and I thnik we'll see them on podium this year definetly some more) …




torek, 24. julij 2012

After Bulder ...



After bouldering worldcups and specially world cup in Boulder I have put some more intention to lead/route climbing. Sure, i've been doing route climbing already all year before, but just between boulder comps it is hard to keep or even increase pure 'lead' indurance. But, i had all mounth for this – and I think i use it really good! :) at the beginning it was maybe not so 'fun', but if you like train hard and felling of geting pumped, you would like it as much as i did! :)




It was also a month of trips and training abroad with team – we've been in Mitterndorf, Imst, Wienna and Mitterndorf again, training, running, eating and having fun together! And I think we all did really god job … but, for prove i will have to wait a bit, till - ...