After 3 years of no championship in lead for me, there come time for it again... I was looking forward for this event in Gijon for quite a while and were very happy, how it has turned out for me.
All through the comp I climbed well, completing both qualification routes, and fell just under the top in semifinal. Fortunately, I repeated good climbing also in final.
For me, it is a first lead medal from World Championships and after not really briliant season till now, it truly means a lot to me. What suprised me a bit is, that I thought I would need to fight on route for silver harder, as I did. it turned out, I climbed quite easily until I fell at a point where I took the wrong foot position which made a harder crux move.
This was my first lead medal in the World Championships and after a not very brilliant season till now, it truly meant a lot to me. What surprised me a bit is that I thought I would need to fight harder on the route for silver. As it turned out, I climbed quite easily until I fell at a point where I took the wrong foot position which made a harder crux move.
It was also nice to take 3rd place in the combination overall ranking. All congratulations also to new world champions Adam Ondra and JaIn Kim, who climbed perfectly to the top and took well deserved golds!
After few days of climbing in Innsbruck I continued on my way to the legendary Rockmaster in Arco.
This comp has a special meaning among all comps and masters I have ever done. For me, remembering last year's event is something that brings me special memories and strong emotions. Receiving the La Sportiva competition award for best comp climber of the year, followed by winning the master itself next day... Truly unforgettable... So, this year, well, let's say I have been looking forward for a long time to this event.
In the comp itself, I took 2nd place in lead and 3rd place in 'duel' lead-speed event. I regretted a bit that my performance in semifinal 'on-sight' route was quite bad, as my climbing was too full of unnecessary doubts and lack of self-trust. The lower height from the previous round (unfortunately I finished 2nd due to the countback) cost me another title on this magnificent master.