četrtek, 30. avgust 2012

Munich bouldering ...

Munich – last boulderingWC in 2012

It pass quite long timesince last bouldering WC and climbing boulder for me. In this time, i have been totally concentrated on lead climbing, but it doesn't mean, that i have forget how to climb boulders :)

I have good memories for last 2 years competing in Munich – really nice competition area and atmosphere for climbing, good boudlers and also good results. So, i was excited to come here again this year!

In qualifications i did all boulder, 3 flashes and some more (stupid) attempts on last one, but still good enough for provisional 5th place.

For next day, i have expected quite harder boulders and also warmed up this way … but just around 15minutes before start my thumb stucked in hole of sloper when i was trying some nice and hard moves :S …situation wasn't nice, but i tried to forget that it happened, focused on competition and boulders, which were waiting for me outside.
 (well, on this i still need to do something :) ...

Except 'jump-based' boulder i have flashed all other 3 easily :) But, because of 'wrong start' on last one, i got an extra attempt, so it just wasn't enough for finals :SSS . So, i have missed last WC finals this year, finishing on 8th place.

Result maybe really don't seems the best, but for me, this competition was still a good sign for upcoming events. I was quite satisfied with climbing and prove to myself, that i am still strong able to climb boulders on high level and i also believe, fight for best places.

What's next? Will see ... but probably you will here my next update from Paris! ;)

nedelja, 12. avgust 2012

World cup Imst - 2nd place

Since last WC in Briancon it has already pass few weeks, but for me it seems just like a little longer and good week. I have spend this time mostly with team, climbing home or somewhere abroad … So, i admit, i was very excited to go to Imst! Also wall here is quite unique, very high and overhanging and it just imagine an extra challenge to me. I wanted to get on the top of this wall and enjoy nice view as many times as possible :)

This time climbing schedule was different than usually, with mostly all happening on friday and finals on saturday. On friday we started already in morning with two qualification routes and ½ final in evening. In first route i have started as second. Not so used on early starting i have started climbing little unsure, but felt more relaxed and easy going from move to move and top the first route. Also second line was pleasure to climb and clip the top …

Just after few hours we started with ½ final. Route looked really nice, quite logical and long … and i admit, looong was also time in isolation zone. But after 25 climbers it was time to go. This time, very similar like in ½ final in Chamonix i found out route quite easy and 'walked' to the top again! Satisfied with good climbing i went home to rest and prepare for next day's FINALS!

In finals first started boys, so i couldn't watch them climbing :( , but still congratulation to Jorg Verghoeven for win! … After them it was time for women’s final! I have warmed up and waited for my turn ... This time i didn't feel so comfortable on wall like day before, did couple of little mistake trough the route and sure, get more and more tired on the way up. I didn't reach the top, but i am still quite satisfied, that i have tried my best. Congratulations to Momoka Oda for her first win and sure, great performance!

Now, there will be 2 weeks break till next event – boulder WC in Munich! See you there! ;)