As every year, I have finished
competition year with 3 days of national competitions in lead and
It was overall very nice event, full of
happening. Beside of climbing competition for all categories, there
were many side activities, presentations and shows available for
visitors. For me, it was already maybe a little bit more relaxed comp
as I am used to, but I have really enjoyed every boulder and route.
Maybe, because I knew, they are probably last for me in this year
After this event, I will took some rest
and focus on other things. But, soon in January, I am coming back to
plastic and training again!
Just after one day after finish of
world cup circuit for this year, I had another competition. It was
military climbing competition, on which also some international
teams were invited.
I went there with Slovenia armed forces
and it was really nice, relaxed and fun trip! :) It was also really nice to spend some
time together with other team-mate climbers, meet Martina Čufar and
About the climbing, I have just enjoyed
it really much! First day we had qualifications (they were
made in kind of 'open' format with 5 routes, 16 boulders and plenty of
time to try and do it).
Routes were not really big challenge
for me at the moment, but with some boulders I had some more fun.
But, together with Klemen Bečan (personal 'hold brusher' and
'beta-giver' at that time: ) ) I managed to do also some harder
Some more walk around snowy Chamonix,
little bit of shopping at local stores, coffee/tea in the down town
and perfect climbing adventure day was over.
Next day it was time for finals. It
was really interesting to climb same route together with men. Me, Maja Vidmar
and 3 guys managed to finish final route and climbed also in
superfinal, what was super cool step of an event. (and I also managed
to come to the highest point of all :P ).
It was also really successful event for
Slovenia armed forces team, with 8 medals and 1st place
altogether between teams (1st , 2nd and 3rd
places for me, Maja Vidmar and Martina Čufar in lead and boulder and
2nd place for Klemen in lead and boulder).
Just to add, I think this trip will
stay in my memory for long time. It was well deserved award for all
year's training, competing and travelling around.
Well, penultimate lead
WC stage is behind us and I have took 2nd place.
Still, we have to be
unique, every podium and medal is really nice result! But, I admit
that I am maybe not most brilliant satisfied with it. I have started
competition well, maybe little bit stressed, but there was already
totally different situation next day. In semifinals I have focused on
route, climb fluid and precise from start to top and clip the last
quickdraw easily. As I was the only one to do the top, I went into
the finals with good attitude and confidence.
Competition as usually
and traditionally here at Valence is altogether very nice organized.
They always make up really nice and big show - light effects, crowd
cheering and all atmosphere for climbing is just almost crazy and soo
But, for me, in finals
things went quite different ... Already on observation I saw the
route little bit different. Not harder, but just like very nice and
interesting climb, looking forward to do it! But, almost for very
beginning I took some (more) wrong or harder move sequence
selection(s), get a bit stressed, but still calm down quite fast and
continued climbing further. Till next stop like this ...
More than by place that I
did at the end, I was not satisfied with climbing during the route
and doing so much mistake and wrong decisions... Well, even that I
saw that I am really good prepared, with climbing like this, it was
hard to see the top... and unfrtunately I didn't ...
Won went to JaIn Kim and 3rd place to Momoka Oda. It was also very nice to see Adam
Ondra back to comps (he took a gold) and Maja Vidmar after
injuries(s) back in finals again! Congratulations to all!
After come back from
China I have spent some really nice and precious time at home. I took
some time for rest, training, meet friends and just enjoy really nice
autumn in Slovenia.
It was also time for
national competition in Tržič. It was nice to compete on local
level after a while, meet and spent some time with local climbers. We
had, sure, also very nice routes and after 2 tops, I took a gold, 2nd
place went to Maja Vidmar and 3rd to Tina Susteršič. By boys, Urban
Primožič won infront of Domen Škofic and Sergej Epih.
Next day, I have used
rest day a bit different as usually, take a short trip and went to
visit my parents in my home town. It does not happen often, so I do
not need to say, it was really enjoyable, warm and relaxed day at
home. Short stop, but just something, what I needed at the moment.
But, because there is not
time for rest now, next day
with Slovenija climbing team we visited really good climbing gym in
Austria's Mitterndorf and did an perfect training (I am quite sure, I have
mentioned it already for few times before, but for all who maybe
missed it, you can check out more on here. And sure, I recomend you to visit and enjoy
even the hardest indoor route climbing there!:).
In few days there will be
time for 2nd latest stage of lead WC this year in Valence (France).
Cross fingers and enjoy
competition on 1st and 2nd of November (here).
After WC in Mokpo and
master in Hajyang there was time for next and last stop of our
'Asia' tour. It was 3rd competition in a week, so schedule
was quite intense, but I admit, I just really liked it! :)
Competition went well and
nice. First day I have topped out qualification routes and next days
also clipped top of semifinal route. In finals I have climbed quite
far, but fall few moves before the top. At the end I (and also
JaIn) probbably took the wrong combination of hold/move sequence and tried to
do the move, but it just does not work. So, despite of
better performance and result in semifinals, I have took the gold.
Happy for perfect end of long, successful and overall very fun week!
Just after WC in Mokpo
we have moved to next competition in China, Hajyang.
Here was holder an IFSC speed WC event, but
they have also decided to organize an additional master lead competition and
classic speed event. This place were also holder of Asia's beach games last
year, so it is no wonder, that everything is well organized and with warm
Chinese hospitality, as usually.
Lead event were done in two parts,
qualifications and finals, both rounds in on-sight format. Routes this time
were set by local 'master' Zhao Lei and were really nice and climbable. They
all contain some 'tricky' parts in the middle and top part. I have managed to
found out the right (or one of right – maybe not the easiest) solution sequences
in both routes, as well as Dinara Fahratdinova. So, due the better time, I have
won again. (This the time difference was a bit smaller, for about 20 second or
something like that)...
Congratulations, sure, also to her! 3rd
place went to young Japanese Ota Risa. By guys Hyunbin Min, Stefanio Gizolfi
and Sean McColl took places on podium.
This time, again I was in quite similar
situation as just few days ago in Mokpo.
I knew the route, I new (thought) am
able to do it and I also expected Dinara did the top. So, I had to forget all
the facts again, erase everything else form my head, focused just on route and
climb (FAST!) Sure, if possible :-)... And, I did it!
See you soon in next few days on next WC in
After WC in Perm I have spend some precious time at home,
went to climb at local gym and did short training weekend trip to Austria … As
every year, I was very excited and almost could not wait to go back to Asia
This year, our first stop was at Korea's Mokpo. We have
been there already last year, so I knew that wall here is really good,
everything nice organized and cool.
Routes were all long, climbable and not too
hard. At the end, it turned out, that me and JaIn Kim finished all of them (2
qualification, semifinals and also final), so about the win decided time. This
time, I was for about minute faster and took the gold medal!
speed-lead kind of finals are really not the best solution ... But still, I was
happy to take the gold here. I was satisfied with my performance, fast and
smooth climbing, without troubles or getting too pumped on the way to top.
Before I enter the final route, I knew that we were both
equal after semifinals. I knew the final route from observation (and it looked
pretty much like route 'to top it') and I have also heard nice cheering from
local crowd... So, I believed that I have to climb fast, but still, do the
route. Because just move fast without do the top is also worth nothing :S. I just
tried to erase all of that thoughts from my head, focused just on route and
moves in front of me, stay calm and climb. Ok, maybe not rest too much :). It
turned out, that I felt really good on the way, arms were fresh like 'nothnig
is happening', so I did not really needed to rest, just chalk a bit and
progress quite fast. At the end, I have clipped last chain with smile at my
face, happy that I did the top.
Year has come across and there was time
for WC in Puurs again.
Puurs is a special and traditional WC
competition, with magnificent wall and very nice organization. So, it
is no wonder, that I am always looking forward to come back and
compete here ... And, I still had some special 'goal' here with this
wall (I have not won here yet) ...
So, something more about competition.
This one will definitely staid in my memory by one word – 'time
out'. I usually never left out of time. Never. 6 minutes in the
quails and 8 in semifinals and finals seems always pretty enough to
finish the route. And, actually they are. Yes, as long as you don't
start to rest on every better hold, because it just feels so good
(like I did in 1st qualification route) or do some longer
stops and searching for solution to do the route (as I did in final).
In final I have finished 2nd.
I have topped the route, but ran out of 8 minutes time limit, before
I have clipped the top, so my official height was few holds lower. I
admit, that this climb was quite far of what I believe I am able to
put together at the moment. This time, won went to JaIn Kim, who
showed really nice and smooth performance all the way to the top.
Adidas rockstars are special kind of
master competition, specialized in bouldering. As it is usual for
master competitions, there is place just for invited. I was really
glad to receive an invitation already earlier this year, and was
looking forward for this event. But, almost till last day I was not
sure, if I will find enough strength to attend it.But, I really wanted to go there.Why – because everyone who has been already here told me it
is super nice. And now, I can totally confirm you – it IS! :)
Competition itself is really made on
high level and it is pleasure to compete and participate on event
have already very enjoy climbing qualifications. The system was
little different than usual WC format, with 4 problems and 4 minutes
climbing time for each. Before the comp, we had also time, to fell
free to watch and discuss about boulders together with other
competitors. Boulders looked pretty hard, but at the end I found
myself on top of all 4 and were really happy about it. Ok, I was not
so satisfied with (too) many attempts I did, but still finished first
round on provisional 7th
Next day there
was time for semifinal. Again, we could observe the problems (but not
try or touch them!) and then go back to isolation, warm up and wait
for our time to climb. Problems looked pretty hard, but different
and interesting again. I did not found them really my style and was,
honestly, little sceptical about them. But, when I came under the
wall, I just saw them in different perspective and were very
motivated to top them all. So, I flashed the 1st one,
needed 2 attempts for 2nd and 3rd one and at
the end also do a 4th one quite fast – WoW! :) It was
enough for provisional 4th place and ticket to evening
In finals, we
have all climb first 2 problems. Then there was time to eliminate 3
and other best 3 continued to next boulder, where was made selection
for best two to challenge in speed climbing of 'superboulder'. That
was the plan. I was really looking forward and sure, wanted to
compete on last one. But I was not alone – there were another 5
also super strong girls with same goal :). I have started very well
with flashing the first problem and was leading by first boulder.
But, in next one (running start jump) I needed too many attempts to
stuck first holds and than finis boulder easily. Despite of too many
tries I could watch next rounds only from crowd.
But, it was still
very cool – Shauna Coxsey showed really nice performance, strength
and fighting till end in 3rd boulder. It was also nice to
watch battle between her and Juliane Wurm (who won) in last one.
Also, big congratulations to Slovenian Jernej Kruder, who climbed
well all day, come into finals and there was faster than Ristam
Gelmanov and won the comp! :)
Just after an amazing evening where I
have got an award for best competition climber for achievements in
2012 I have climbed on traditional Arco rock master.
This year I have decided to participate
just in lead. Not because I would not like bouldering, but just
because I think, that there is enough competitions this year (already
where and also many more will be)*...
For me, it was 4th master
competition in Arco (I was here in 2007, 2008 and 2009, finishing on
4th, 3rd and 2nd place ... So, what
will be next this year? :)
Every time I am very excited to come
back in Arco. Not just because of wall and routes, which here are
really long and impressive, but also because in my eyes Arco is kind
of 'magic'. It is home of climbing and first competitions, small
city with big and strong tradition. Maybe it is also interesting to
mention, that first competition here were made exactly in a year,
when I was born – 1987 :).
This year competition were made in
little different format. On Thursday and Friday there were 'open'
competitions (like 'pre event') for lead and boulder, which everyone
could attend and only first 4 or each category get their places on
Arco master. I was placed directly on master competition, as also
other best 6 girls ranked on official IFSC world ranking.
Main part of competition were Saturday.
Day has stared with kind of 'semifinal’s' and on-site route. I have
climbed fluidly and without troubles almost all the way to the top.
But, just hold or two before top, I could not decide properly, if I
should skip a hold on right and just go to the top, or continued like
I have observed (but move looked strange and not so logical as first
'direct' alternative)...Well, I have still decided to go onto right,
but it turned out that it was not best decision for me. So, I found
myself on the rope. Ja-in Kim decided same way as me, but managed to
stick this hold, but did not found the solution what to do next.
In afternoon it was time study
'after-work' route. Everyone had about 20 minutes to observe and try
the route, which we climbed than same evening later in the 'final'.
Based on the result of this route was Arco rock master winner of
2013. I have climbed again all the way to the top, but missed out
hold before the top. I admit, that I was pretty angry. Because I
knew, that one move more was possible and I was sure, I could did
it ... But, I didn't :(
But still, at the end it was enough for
1st place! :)
I would still like to congratulate to
Ja in Kim and and Akiyo Noguhi for great performance! And also to
Ramon Julian Puigblanque, who showed really outstanding and almost
unbelievable powder and endurance! It was great day also for
Slovenian Domen Škofic, who finished on 3rd place!
(Domen, it was nice to have Slovenian man company after a while in a
final :) )
Arco rock legends awards are kind of highest
international awards in climbing, assigns two prestigious sport
climbing prizes. One for climbs outdoors - the Salewa Rock Award and
another one for competitions - the La Sportiva Competition Award.
They are selected by 12 jurors, representers of 12 international
foto by: Piotr Droždž
As a winner of world cup in lead and overall in 2012 (alredy for second time) I was nominated in LaSportiva cometition category. By my sidfe there were Angela Eiter and Jakob Schubert, both amazing competition
climbers, world champions from Paris in 2012 and many more...
This year European championship did not took place on one loaction and same date, but it was splitted into two events - one at the middle of July in Chamonix (lead and speed) and other at end of August in Eindhoeven.
I have compete in all three disciplines and at the end, finished on 2nd places in lead, boulder and overall category. Overall, I thnik it is very good result!
Looking back, I am more or less satisfied with my climbing on this event(s). Sure, in one's more and others less ... But, there is still time and motivation to make it better next time :)
In overall category won went to Dinara Fahrtadinova and 3rd place to Cecil Avezu. Congradulations t bouth! :)
After week of climbing and enjoying in Germany and it's 'Boulderwelt's' it was time to move to Eindhoeven for our next stop - European Championship in boudlering...
On this comp i had just one goal - enjoy bouldering as much as I can, nothing else. And, I think I did it pretty well! :) I really liked athmosphere, wall and climbing in this nice Nedherlad's town. From round to round I felt better on the wall and enjoy boulders more.
In finlas, I have finished on 2nd place. Even, that I have missed chance to won this comp on last boulder with not flashing it, I am still satisfied with climbing and the result ...
More fotos are comming soon...
Till than, you can find some of them here ...
After quite a while there came time for last stage of bouldering world cups
in 2013, taking place in - Munich! :)
Since my last bouldering moves it really has passed some time, especially because
this year I have decided to skip two events (Toronto and Vail).
Even, that at the moment I am/was putting much more attention and focus on
lead, I was very excited and looks forward on this event!
(maybe, because Munich was always something special for me - I have won my
fist boulder WC here (in 2011) and also broke a finger (2012)...well, I admit
that I prefer first memory a bit more:).
I have to say, that it felt really nice to do some bouldering again. In
semifinals i did 3 boulders, but in too many attempts to reach the finals. But,
i have seen, that i am still in touch with bouldering top athletes and could
took a part in finals, if i would not do so many mistakes, stupid attempts and
sliping of the wall.
At the end i took 10th place on this event and also 10th in overall 2013
bouldering rankings (even, that i have skipped two events).
About the bouldering, i think at the moment I probably need just some day
or two of bouldering, to adapt style and approach a bit from lead. And i believe,
mistakes and unusefull attempts could easily disappear :)
My next stop will be already this weekend in Eindhoeven, where will be
European Championship in bouldering.
After competition in Munich, with team we are staying in Germany. There
will be enought chances and opportunities to do some nice boudering, but sure,
i am promise you, i will not forget on lead and also do some nice routes
For all followers, please cross fingers for me on 31st of August! :)