torek, 15. oktober 2013

Tim, time, time, ...master in Hajyang, China

Just after WC in Mokpo we have moved to next competition in China, Hajyang.
Here was holder an IFSC speed WC event, but they have also decided to organize an additional master lead competition and classic speed event. This place were also holder of Asia's beach games last year, so it is no wonder, that everything is well organized and with warm Chinese hospitality, as usually.

 Lead event were done in two parts, qualifications and finals, both rounds in on-sight format. Routes this time were set by local 'master' Zhao Lei and were really nice and climbable. They all contain some 'tricky' parts in the middle and top part. I have managed to found out the right (or one of right – maybe not the easiest) solution sequences in both routes, as well as Dinara Fahratdinova. So, due the better time, I have won again. (This the time difference was a bit smaller, for about 20 second or something like that)...

Congratulations, sure, also to her! 3rd place went to young Japanese Ota Risa. By guys Hyunbin Min, Stefanio Gizolfi and Sean McColl took places on podium.

This time, again I was in quite similar situation as just few days ago in Mokpo. I knew the route, I new (thought)  am able to do it and I also expected Dinara did the top. So, I had to forget all the facts again, erase everything else form my head, focused just on route and climb (FAST!) Sure, if possible :-)... And, I did it!

See you soon in next few days on next WC in Wuyang!!!

Bye, mina 

WC Mokpo - 1st place

After WC in Perm I have spend some precious time at home, went to climb at local gym and did short training weekend trip to Austria … As every year, I was very excited and almost could not wait to go back to Asia again :).

This year, our first stop was at Korea's Mokpo. We have been there already last year, so I knew that wall here is really good, everything nice organized and cool. 

Routes were all long, climbable and not too hard. At the end, it turned out, that me and JaIn Kim finished all of them (2 qualification, semifinals and also final), so about the win decided time. This time, I was for about minute faster and took the gold medal!

Maybe speed-lead kind of finals are really not the best solution ... But still, I was happy to take the gold here. I was satisfied with my performance, fast and smooth climbing, without troubles or getting too pumped on the way to top. 

Before I enter the final route, I knew that we were both equal after semifinals. I knew the final route from observation (and it looked pretty much like route 'to top it') and I have also heard nice cheering from local crowd... So, I believed that I have to climb fast, but still, do the route. Because just move fast without do the top is also worth nothing :S. I just tried to erase all of that thoughts from my head, focused just on route and moves in front of me, stay calm and climb. Ok, maybe not rest too much :). It turned out, that I felt really good on the way, arms were fresh like 'nothnig is happening', so I did not really needed to rest, just chalk a bit and progress quite fast. At the end, I have clipped last chain with smile at my face, happy that I did the top.