torek, 24. september 2013

'Time out' weekend and 2nd place on WC in Puurs

Year has come across and there was time for WC in Puurs again.
 
Puurs is a special and traditional WC competition, with magnificent wall and very nice organization. So, it is no wonder, that I am always looking forward to come back and compete here ... And, I still had some special 'goal' here with this wall (I have not won here yet) ...
So, something more about competition. This one will definitely staid in my memory by one word – 'time out'. I usually never left out of time. Never. 6 minutes in the quails and 8 in semifinals and finals seems always pretty enough to finish the route. And, actually they are. Yes, as long as you don't start to rest on every better hold, because it just feels so good (like I did in 1st qualification route) or do some longer stops and searching for solution to do the route (as I did in final).
In final I have finished 2nd. I have topped the route, but ran out of 8 minutes time limit, before I have clipped the top, so my official height was few holds lower. I admit, that this climb was quite far of what I believe I am able to put together at the moment. This time, won went to JaIn Kim, who showed really nice and smooth performance all the way to the top. Congradulations! :)
At the moment I am spending few days at home – chilling, training and preparing for next comp. And it just feels so nice! :)
My next stop will be already next weekend in Perm (Russia). I am already looking forward to start the next comp and challenge there!

So, stay tuned and cross fingers for me on 28th and 29th of September. Starting with qualifications at 9.30 (GTM +5). More info here (or on IFCS) ...

Bye, mina


nedelja, 15. september 2013

Adidas rockstars

Adidas rockstars are special kind of master competition, specialized in bouldering. As it is usual for master competitions, there is place just for invited. I was really glad to receive an invitation already earlier this year, and was looking forward for this event. But, almost till last day I was not sure, if I will find enough strength to attend it. But, I really wanted to go there. Why – because everyone who has been already here told me it is super nice. And now, I can totally confirm you – it IS! :)
Competition itself is really made on high level and it is pleasure to compete and participate on event like this!
I have already very enjoy climbing qualifications. The system was little different than usual WC format, with 4 problems and 4 minutes climbing time for each. Before the comp, we had also time, to fell free to watch and discuss about boulders together with other competitors. Boulders looked pretty hard, but at the end I found myself on top of all 4 and were really happy about it. Ok, I was not so satisfied with (too) many attempts I did, but still finished first round on provisional 7th place.
Next day there was time for semifinal. Again, we could observe the problems (but not try or touch them!) and then go back to isolation, warm up and wait for our time to climb. Problems looked pretty hard, but different and interesting again. I did not found them really my style and was, honestly, little sceptical about them. But, when I came under the wall, I just saw them in different perspective and were very motivated to top them all. So, I flashed the 1st one, needed 2 attempts for 2nd and 3rd one and at the end also do a 4th one quite fast – WoW! :) It was enough for provisional 4th place and ticket to evening finals! 
In finals, we have all climb first 2 problems. Then there was time to eliminate 3 and other best 3 continued to next boulder, where was made selection for best two to challenge in speed climbing of 'superboulder'. That was the plan. I was really looking forward and sure, wanted to compete on last one. But I was not alone – there were another 5 also super strong girls with same goal :). I have started very well with flashing the first problem and was leading by first boulder. But, in next one (running start jump) I needed too many attempts to stuck first holds and than finis boulder easily. Despite of too many tries I could watch next rounds only from crowd.
But, it was still very cool – Shauna Coxsey showed really nice performance, strength and fighting till end in 3rd boulder. It was also nice to watch battle between her and Juliane Wurm (who won) in last one. Also, big congratulations to Slovenian Jernej Kruder, who climbed well all day, come into finals and there was faster than Ristam Gelmanov and won the comp! :)
I have to admit, that event made really big impression on me and I just wish, it would be more events like this. So, all I can add is, that I am just looking forward to come back next year!!!

Bye,
mina

 

torek, 10. september 2013

1st place on lead Arco rockmaster

Just after an amazing evening where I have got an award for best competition climber for achievements in 2012 I have climbed on traditional Arco rock master.

This year I have decided to participate just in lead. Not because I would not like bouldering, but just because I think, that there is enough competitions this year (already where and also many more will be)*...
For me, it was 4th master competition in Arco (I was here in 2007, 2008 and 2009, finishing on 4th, 3rd and 2nd place ... So, what will be next this year? :)

Every time I am very excited to come back in Arco. Not just because of wall and routes, which here are really long and impressive, but also because in my eyes Arco is kind of 'magic'. It is home of climbing and first competitions, small city with big and strong tradition. Maybe it is also interesting to mention, that first competition here were made exactly in a year, when I was born – 1987 :).
This year competition were made in little different format. On Thursday and Friday there were 'open' competitions (like 'pre event') for lead and boulder, which everyone could attend and only first 4 or each category get their places on Arco master. I was placed directly on master competition, as also other best 6 girls ranked on official IFSC world ranking.
Main part of competition were Saturday. Day has stared with kind of 'semifinal’s' and on-site route. I have climbed fluidly and without troubles almost all the way to the top. But, just hold or two before top, I could not decide properly, if I should skip a hold on right and just go to the top, or continued like I have observed (but move looked strange and not so logical as first 'direct' alternative)...Well, I have still decided to go onto right, but it turned out that it was not best decision for me. So, I found myself on the rope. Ja-in Kim decided same way as me, but managed to stick this hold, but did not found the solution what to do next.
In afternoon it was time study 'after-work' route. Everyone had about 20 minutes to observe and try the route, which we climbed than same evening later in the 'final'. Based on the result of this route was Arco rock master winner of 2013. I have climbed again all the way to the top, but missed out hold before the top. I admit, that I was pretty angry. Because I knew, that one move more was possible and I was sure, I could did it ... But, I didn't :(
But still, at the end it was enough for 1st place! :)

I would still like to congratulate to Ja in Kim and and Akiyo Noguhi for great performance! And also to Ramon Julian Puigblanque, who showed really outstanding and almost unbelievable powder and endurance! It was great day also for Slovenian Domen Škofic, who finished on 3rd place!
(Domen, it was nice to have Slovenian man company after a while in a final :) )
In two days I will move further to next stop on Adidas Rockstars bouldering master in Stuttgart. You can check it out and get more infos about it here. And sure, you are really welcome to cross fingers for me on this weekend too! :)

Bye, mina

*Arco was 3rd competition in a row and 3 more in a row are still coming...And than after weekend break we are going on 'Asia' trip for two stages of WC's and master competition in-between...

ponedeljek, 09. september 2013

Winner of Arco Rock Legend AWARD!

Arco rock legends awards are kind of highest international awards in climbing, assigns two prestigious sport climbing prizes. One for climbs outdoors - the Salewa Rock Award and another one for competitions - the La Sportiva Competition Award. They are selected by 12 jurors, representers of 12 international climbing/outdoor magazines.
foto by: Piotr Droždž
 
As a winner of world cup in lead and overall in 2012 (alredy for second time) I was nominated in LaSportiva cometition category. By my sidfe there were Angela Eiter and Jakob Schubert, both amazing competition climbers, world champions from Paris in 2012 and many more...

More about event you find and read here - about Arco rock legend nominations and report from  an event) ...

četrtek, 05. september 2013

3 x European vice chamopion

This year European championship did not took place on one loaction and same date, but it was splitted into two events - one at the middle of July in Chamonix (lead and speed) and other at end of August in Eindhoeven.

I have compete in all three disciplines and at the end, finished on 2nd places in lead, boulder and overall category. Overall, I thnik it is very good result!
 
Looking back, I am more or less satisfied with my climbing on this event(s). Sure, in one's more and others less ... But, there is still time and motivation to make it better next time :)
 
In overall category won went to Dinara Fahrtadinova and 3rd place to Cecil Avezu. Congradulations t bouth! :)

torek, 03. september 2013

2nd place on European Championship in bouldering! :)

After week of climbing and enjoying in Germany and it's 'Boulderwelt's' it was time to move to Eindhoeven for our next stop - European Championship in boudlering...
On this comp i had just one goal - enjoy bouldering as much as I can, nothing else. And, I think I did it pretty well! :) I really liked athmosphere, wall and climbing in this nice Nedherlad's town. From round to round I felt better on the wall and enjoy boulders more.
In finlas, I have finished on 2nd place. Even, that I have missed chance to won this comp on last boulder with not flashing it, I am still satisfied with climbing and the result ...

More fotos are comming soon...
Till than, you can find some of them here ...