torek, 15. oktober 2013

WC Mokpo - 1st place

After WC in Perm I have spend some precious time at home, went to climb at local gym and did short training weekend trip to Austria … As every year, I was very excited and almost could not wait to go back to Asia again :).

This year, our first stop was at Korea's Mokpo. We have been there already last year, so I knew that wall here is really good, everything nice organized and cool. 

Routes were all long, climbable and not too hard. At the end, it turned out, that me and JaIn Kim finished all of them (2 qualification, semifinals and also final), so about the win decided time. This time, I was for about minute faster and took the gold medal!

Maybe speed-lead kind of finals are really not the best solution ... But still, I was happy to take the gold here. I was satisfied with my performance, fast and smooth climbing, without troubles or getting too pumped on the way to top. 

Before I enter the final route, I knew that we were both equal after semifinals. I knew the final route from observation (and it looked pretty much like route 'to top it') and I have also heard nice cheering from local crowd... So, I believed that I have to climb fast, but still, do the route. Because just move fast without do the top is also worth nothing :S. I just tried to erase all of that thoughts from my head, focused just on route and moves in front of me, stay calm and climb. Ok, maybe not rest too much :). It turned out, that I felt really good on the way, arms were fresh like 'nothnig is happening', so I did not really needed to rest, just chalk a bit and progress quite fast. At the end, I have clipped last chain with smile at my face, happy that I did the top.

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