torek, 10. september 2013

1st place on lead Arco rockmaster

Just after an amazing evening where I have got an award for best competition climber for achievements in 2012 I have climbed on traditional Arco rock master.

This year I have decided to participate just in lead. Not because I would not like bouldering, but just because I think, that there is enough competitions this year (already where and also many more will be)*...
For me, it was 4th master competition in Arco (I was here in 2007, 2008 and 2009, finishing on 4th, 3rd and 2nd place ... So, what will be next this year? :)

Every time I am very excited to come back in Arco. Not just because of wall and routes, which here are really long and impressive, but also because in my eyes Arco is kind of 'magic'. It is home of climbing and first competitions, small city with big and strong tradition. Maybe it is also interesting to mention, that first competition here were made exactly in a year, when I was born – 1987 :).
This year competition were made in little different format. On Thursday and Friday there were 'open' competitions (like 'pre event') for lead and boulder, which everyone could attend and only first 4 or each category get their places on Arco master. I was placed directly on master competition, as also other best 6 girls ranked on official IFSC world ranking.
Main part of competition were Saturday. Day has stared with kind of 'semifinal’s' and on-site route. I have climbed fluidly and without troubles almost all the way to the top. But, just hold or two before top, I could not decide properly, if I should skip a hold on right and just go to the top, or continued like I have observed (but move looked strange and not so logical as first 'direct' alternative)...Well, I have still decided to go onto right, but it turned out that it was not best decision for me. So, I found myself on the rope. Ja-in Kim decided same way as me, but managed to stick this hold, but did not found the solution what to do next.
In afternoon it was time study 'after-work' route. Everyone had about 20 minutes to observe and try the route, which we climbed than same evening later in the 'final'. Based on the result of this route was Arco rock master winner of 2013. I have climbed again all the way to the top, but missed out hold before the top. I admit, that I was pretty angry. Because I knew, that one move more was possible and I was sure, I could did it ... But, I didn't :(
But still, at the end it was enough for 1st place! :)

I would still like to congratulate to Ja in Kim and and Akiyo Noguhi for great performance! And also to Ramon Julian Puigblanque, who showed really outstanding and almost unbelievable powder and endurance! It was great day also for Slovenian Domen Škofic, who finished on 3rd place!
(Domen, it was nice to have Slovenian man company after a while in a final :) )
In two days I will move further to next stop on Adidas Rockstars bouldering master in Stuttgart. You can check it out and get more infos about it here. And sure, you are really welcome to cross fingers for me on this weekend too! :)

Bye, mina

*Arco was 3rd competition in a row and 3 more in a row are still coming...And than after weekend break we are going on 'Asia' trip for two stages of WC's and master competition in-between...

Ni komentarjev:

Objavite komentar