48. PDK – last competition event of 2013

As every year, I have finished competition year with 3 days of national competitions in lead and boulder.

It was overall very nice event, full of happening. Beside of climbing competition for all categories, there were many side activities, presentations and shows available for visitors. For me, it was already maybe a little bit more relaxed comp as I am used to, but I have really enjoyed every boulder and route. Maybe, because I knew, they are probably last for me in this year :'(.

After this event, I will took some rest and focus on other things. But, soon in January, I am coming back to plastic and training again!

all photos from:PDK

Until than, I am sure there will be many events and interesting things to do ...

So, see you soon! :)

Winter visit and climbing in Chamonix

Just after one day after finish of world cup circuit for this year, I had another competition. It was military climbing competition, on which also some international teams were invited.

I went there with Slovenia armed forces and it was really nice, relaxed and fun trip! :) It was also really nice to spend some time together with other team-mate climbers, meet Martina Čufar and others ...

About the climbing, I have just enjoyed it really much! First day we had qualifications (they were made in kind of 'open' format with 5 routes, 16 boulders and plenty of time to try and do it).

Routes were not really big challenge for me at the moment, but with some boulders I had some more fun. But, together with Klemen Bečan (personal 'hold brusher' and 'beta-giver' at that time: ) ) I managed to do also some harder pieces.

Some more walk around snowy Chamonix, little bit of shopping at local stores, coffee/tea in the down town and perfect climbing adventure day was over.

Next day it was time for finals. It was really interesting to climb same route together with men. Me, Maja Vidmar and 3 guys managed to finish final route and climbed also in superfinal, what was super cool step of an event. (and I also managed to come to the highest point of all :P ).

It was also really successful event for Slovenia armed forces team, with 8 medals and 1^st place altogether between teams (1^st , 2^nd and 3^rd places for me, Maja Vidmar and Martina Čufar in lead and boulder and 2^nd place for Klemen in lead and boulder).

Just to add, I think this trip will stay in my memory for long time. It was well deserved award for all year's training, competing and travelling around.

Thank you Slovenia armed forces! :)

3rd, 2nd and 1st place overall after WC in Kranj

At this momment and place I would like to give big thanks to Slovenija climbing team (supported by adids outdoor, Lapis holds), Slovenija armed forces, LaSportva, my coach Roman Krajnik, people who are close to me and everyone, who folloded, believed and support me and made another very sucessful competition and climbing year possible! :)

THANK YOU!

More news comming soon...

WC in Valence

Well, penultimate lead WC stage is behind us and I have took 2^nd place.

 

Still, we have to be unique, every podium and medal is really nice result! But, I admit that I am maybe not most brilliant satisfied with it. I have started competition well, maybe little bit stressed, but there was already totally different situation next day. In semifinals I have focused on route, climb fluid and precise from start to top and clip the last quickdraw easily. As I was the only one to do the top, I went into the finals with good attitude and confidence.

Competition as usually and traditionally here at Valence is altogether very nice organized. They always make up really nice and big show - light effects, crowd cheering and all atmosphere for climbing is just almost crazy and soo good! :)

But, for me, in finals things went quite different ... Already on observation I saw the route little bit different. Not harder, but just like very nice and interesting climb, looking forward to do it! But, almost for very beginning I took some (more) wrong or harder move sequence selection(s), get a bit stressed, but still calm down quite fast and continued climbing further. Till next stop like this ...

More than by place that I did at the end, I was not satisfied with climbing during the route and doing so much mistake and wrong decisions... Well, even that I saw that I am really good prepared, with climbing like this, it was hard to see the top... and unfrtunately I didn't ...

Won went to JaIn Kim and 3^rd place to Momoka Oda. It was also very nice to see Adam Ondra back to comps (he took a gold) and Maja Vidmar after injuries(s) back in finals again! Congratulations to all!

See you in Kranj!

After China …

After come back from China I have spent some really nice and precious time at home. I took some time for rest, training, meet friends and just enjoy really nice autumn in Slovenia.

It was also time for national competition in Tržič. It was nice to compete on local level after a while, meet and spent some time with local climbers. We had, sure, also very nice routes and after 2 tops, I took a gold, 2^nd place went to Maja Vidmar and 3rd to Tina Susteršič. By boys, Urban Primožič won infront of Domen Škofic and Sergej Epih.

Next day, I have used rest day a bit different as usually, take a short trip and went to visit my parents in my home town. It does not happen often, so I do not need to say, it was really enjoyable, warm and relaxed day at home. Short stop, but just something, what I needed at the moment.

But, because there is not time for rest now, next day with Slovenija climbing team we visited really good climbing gym in Austria's Mitterndorf and did an perfect training (I am quite sure, I have mentioned it already for few times before, but for all who maybe missed it, you can check out more on here. And sure, I recomend you to visit and enjoy even the hardest indoor route climbing there!:).

In few days there will be time for 2^nd latest stage of lead WC this year in Valence (France).

Cross fingers and enjoy competition on 1^st and 2^nd of November (here).

Bye, mina

3rd straight won in Asia

After WC in Mokpo and master in Hajyang there was time for next and last stop of our 'Asia' tour. It was 3^rd competition in a week, so schedule was quite intense, but I admit, I just really liked it! :)

Competition went well and nice. First day I have topped out qualification routes and next days also clipped top of semifinal route. In finals I have climbed quite far, but fall few moves before the­ top. At the end I (and also JaIn) probbably took the wrong combination of hold/move sequence and tried to do the move, but it just does not work. So, despite of better performance and result in semifinals, I have took the gold. Happy for perfect end of long, successful and overall very fun week!

Tim, time, time, ...master in Hajyang, China

Just after WC in Mokpo we have moved to next competition in China, Hajyang.

Here was holder an IFSC speed WC event, but they have also decided to organize an additional master lead competition and classic speed event. This place were also holder of Asia's beach games last year, so it is no wonder, that everything is well organized and with warm Chinese hospitality, as usually.

 Lead event were done in two parts, qualifications and finals, both rounds in on-sight format. Routes this time were set by local 'master' Zhao Lei and were really nice and climbable. They all contain some 'tricky' parts in the middle and top part. I have managed to found out the right (or one of right – maybe not the easiest) solution sequences in both routes, as well as Dinara Fahratdinova. So, due the better time, I have won again. (This the time difference was a bit smaller, for about 20 second or something like that)...

Congratulations, sure, also to her! 3^rd place went to young Japanese Ota Risa. By guys Hyunbin Min, Stefanio Gizolfi and Sean McColl took places on podium.

This time, again I was in quite similar situation as just few days ago in Mokpo. I knew the route, I new (thought)  am able to do it and I also expected Dinara did the top. So, I had to forget all the facts again, erase everything else form my head, focused just on route and climb (FAST!) Sure, if possible :-)... And, I did it!

See you soon in next few days on next WC in Wuyang!!!

Bye, mina 

WC Mokpo - 1st place

After WC in Perm I have spend some precious time at home, went to climb at local gym and did short training weekend trip to Austria … As every year, I was very excited and almost could not wait to go back to Asia again :).

This year, our first stop was at Korea's Mokpo. We have been there already last year, so I knew that wall here is really good, everything nice organized and cool. 

Routes were all long, climbable and not too hard. At the end, it turned out, that me and JaIn Kim finished all of them (2 qualification, semifinals and also final), so about the win decided time. This time, I was for about minute faster and took the gold medal!

Maybe speed-lead kind of finals are really not the best solution ... But still, I was happy to take the gold here. I was satisfied with my performance, fast and smooth climbing, without troubles or getting too pumped on the way to top. 

Before I enter the final route, I knew that we were both equal after semifinals. I knew the final route from observation (and it looked pretty much like route 'to top it') and I have also heard nice cheering from local crowd... So, I believed that I have to climb fast, but still, do the route. Because just move fast without do the top is also worth nothing :S. I just tried to erase all of that thoughts from my head, focused just on route and moves in front of me, stay calm and climb. Ok, maybe not rest too much :). It turned out, that I felt really good on the way, arms were fresh like 'nothnig is happening', so I did not really needed to rest, just chalk a bit and progress quite fast. At the end, I have clipped last chain with smile at my face, happy that I did the top.

'Time out' weekend and 2nd place on WC in Puurs

Year has come across and there was time for WC in Puurs again.

 

Puurs is a special and traditional WC competition, with magnificent wall and very nice organization. So, it is no wonder, that I am always looking forward to come back and compete here ... And, I still had some special 'goal' here with this wall (I have not won here yet) ...

So, something more about competition. This one will definitely staid in my memory by one word – 'time out'. I usually never left out of time. Never. 6 minutes in the quails and 8 in semifinals and finals seems always pretty enough to finish the route. And, actually they are. Yes, as long as you don't start to rest on every better hold, because it just feels so good (like I did in 1^st qualification route) or do some longer stops and searching for solution to do the route (as I did in final).

In final I have finished 2^nd. I have topped the route, but ran out of 8 minutes time limit, before I have clipped the top, so my official height was few holds lower. I admit, that this climb was quite far of what I believe I am able to put together at the moment. This time, won went to JaIn Kim, who showed really nice and smooth performance all the way to the top. Congradulations! :)

All foto: Roman Krajnik

At the moment I am spending few days at home – chilling, training and preparing for next comp. And it just feels so nice! :)

My next stop will be already next weekend in Perm (Russia). I am already looking forward to start the next comp and challenge there!

So, stay tuned and cross fingers for me on 28^th and 29^th of September. Starting with qualifications at 9.30 (GTM +5). More info here (or on IFCS) ...

Bye, mina

Adidas rockstars

Adidas rockstars are special kind of master competition, specialized in bouldering. As it is usual for master competitions, there is place just for invited. I was really glad to receive an invitation already earlier this year, and was looking forward for this event. But, almost till last day I was not sure, if I will find enough strength to attend it. But, I really wanted to go there. Why – because everyone who has been already here told me it is super nice. And now, I can totally confirm you – it IS! :)

Competition itself is really made on high level and it is pleasure to compete and participate on event like this!

Foto by: C. Waldegger

I have already very enjoy climbing qualifications. The system was little different than usual WC format, with 4 problems and 4 minutes climbing time for each. Before the comp, we had also time, to fell free to watch and discuss about boulders together with other competitors. Boulders looked pretty hard, but at the end I found myself on top of all 4 and were really happy about it. Ok, I was not so satisfied with (too) many attempts I did, but still finished first round on provisional 7^th place.

Foto by: C. Waldegger

Next day there was time for semifinal. Again, we could observe the problems (but not try or touch them!) and then go back to isolation, warm up and wait for our time to climb. Problems looked pretty hard, but different and interesting again. I did not found them really my style and was, honestly, little sceptical about them. But, when I came under the wall, I just saw them in different perspective and were very motivated to top them all. So, I flashed the 1^st one, needed 2 attempts for 2^nd and 3^rd one and at the end also do a 4^th one quite fast – WoW! :) It was enough for provisional 4^th place and ticket to evening finals! 

Foto by: C. Waldegger

In finals, we have all climb first 2 problems. Then there was time to eliminate 3 and other best 3 continued to next boulder, where was made selection for best two to challenge in speed climbing of 'superboulder'. That was the plan. I was really looking forward and sure, wanted to compete on last one. But I was not alone – there were another 5 also super strong girls with same goal :). I have started very well with flashing the first problem and was leading by first boulder. But, in next one (running start jump) I needed too many attempts to stuck first holds and than finis boulder easily. Despite of too many tries I could watch next rounds only from crowd.

Foto by: C. Waldegger

But, it was still very cool – Shauna Coxsey showed really nice performance, strength and fighting till end in 3^rd boulder. It was also nice to watch battle between her and Juliane Wurm (who won) in last one. Also, big congratulations to Slovenian Jernej Kruder, who climbed well all day, come into finals and there was faster than Ristam Gelmanov and won the comp! :)

Foto by: C. Waldegger

I have to admit, that event made really big impression on me and I just wish, it would be more events like this. So, all I can add is, that I am just looking forward to come back next year!!!

Bye,

mina

 

1st place on lead Arco rockmaster

Just after an amazing evening where I have got an award for best competition climber for achievements in 2012 I have climbed on traditional Arco rock master.

This year I have decided to participate just in lead. Not because I would not like bouldering, but just because I think, that there is enough competitions this year (already where and also many more will be)*...

For me, it was 4^th master competition in Arco (I was here in 2007, 2008 and 2009, finishing on 4^th, 3^rd and 2^nd place ... So, what will be next this year? :)

Every time I am very excited to come back in Arco. Not just because of wall and routes, which here are really long and impressive, but also because in my eyes Arco is kind of 'magic'. It is home of climbing and first competitions, small city with big and strong tradition. Maybe it is also interesting to mention, that first competition here were made exactly in a year, when I was born – 1987 :).

This year competition were made in little different format. On Thursday and Friday there were 'open' competitions (like 'pre event') for lead and boulder, which everyone could attend and only first 4 or each category get their places on Arco master. I was placed directly on master competition, as also other best 6 girls ranked on official IFSC world ranking.

Main part of competition were Saturday. Day has stared with kind of 'semifinal’s' and on-site route. I have climbed fluidly and without troubles almost all the way to the top. But, just hold or two before top, I could not decide properly, if I should skip a hold on right and just go to the top, or continued like I have observed (but move looked strange and not so logical as first 'direct' alternative)...Well, I have still decided to go onto right, but it turned out that it was not best decision for me. So, I found myself on the rope. Ja-in Kim decided same way as me, but managed to stick this hold, but did not found the solution what to do next.

In afternoon it was time study 'after-work' route. Everyone had about 20 minutes to observe and try the route, which we climbed than same evening later in the 'final'. Based on the result of this route was Arco rock master winner of 2013. I have climbed again all the way to the top, but missed out hold before the top. I admit, that I was pretty angry. Because I knew, that one move more was possible and I was sure, I could did it ... But, I didn't :(

But still, at the end it was enough for 1^st place! :)

I would still like to congratulate to Ja in Kim and and Akiyo Noguhi for great performance! And also to Ramon Julian Puigblanque, who showed really outstanding and almost unbelievable powder and endurance! It was great day also for Slovenian Domen Škofic, who finished on 3^rd place!

(Domen, it was nice to have Slovenian man company after a while in a final :) )

In two days I will move further to next stop on Adidas Rockstars bouldering master in Stuttgart. You can check it out and get more infos about it here. And sure, you are really welcome to cross fingers for me on this weekend too! :)

Bye, mina

*Arco was 3^rd competition in a row and 3 more in a row are still coming...And than after weekend break we are going on 'Asia' trip for two stages of WC's and master competition in-between...

Winner of Arco Rock Legend AWARD!

Arco rock legends awards are kind of highest international awards in climbing, assigns two prestigious sport climbing prizes. One for climbs outdoors - the Salewa Rock Award and another one for competitions - the La Sportiva Competition Award. They are selected by 12 jurors, representers of 12 international climbing/outdoor magazines.

foto by: Piotr Droždž

 

As a winner of world cup in lead and overall in 2012 (alredy for second time) I was nominated in LaSportiva cometition category. By my sidfe there were Angela Eiter and Jakob Schubert, both amazing competition climbers, world champions from Paris in 2012 and many more...

More about event you find and read here - about Arco rock legend nominations and report from  an event) ...

3 x European vice chamopion

This year European championship did not took place on one loaction and same date, but it was splitted into two events - one at the middle of July in Chamonix (lead and speed) and other at end of August in Eindhoeven.

I have compete in all three disciplines and at the end, finished on 2nd places in lead, boulder and overall category. Overall, I thnik it is very good result!

 

Looking back, I am more or less satisfied with my climbing on this event(s). Sure, in one's more and others less ... But, there is still time and motivation to make it better next time :)

 

In overall category won went to Dinara Fahrtadinova and 3rd place to Cecil Avezu. Congradulations t bouth! :)

2nd place on European Championship in bouldering! :)

After week of climbing and enjoying in Germany and it's 'Boulderwelt's' it was time to move to Eindhoeven for our next stop - European Championship in boudlering...

On this comp i had just one goal - enjoy bouldering as much as I can, nothing else. And, I think I did it pretty well! :) I really liked athmosphere, wall and climbing in this nice Nedherlad's town. From round to round I felt better on the wall and enjoy boulders more.

In finlas, I have finished on 2nd place. Even, that I have missed chance to won this comp on last boulder with not flashing it, I am still satisfied with climbing and the result ...

More fotos are comming soon...
Till than, you can find some of them here ...

Final stage of bouldering WC's -Munich

After quite a while there came time for last stage of bouldering world cups in 2013, taking place in - Munich! :)

Since my last bouldering moves it really has passed some time, especially because this year I have decided to skip two events (Toronto and Vail). 

                                                     

Even, that at the moment I am/was putting much more attention and focus on lead, I was very excited and looks forward on this event! 

(maybe, because Munich was always something special for me - I have won my fist boulder WC here (in 2011) and also broke a finger (2012)...well, I admit that I prefer first memory a bit more:).

I have to say, that it felt really nice to do some bouldering again. In semifinals i did 3 boulders, but in too many attempts to reach the finals. But, i have seen, that i am still in touch with bouldering top athletes and could took a part in finals, if i would not do so many mistakes, stupid attempts and sliping of the wall.

At the end i took 10th place on this event and also 10th in overall 2013 bouldering rankings (even, that i have skipped two events). 

About the bouldering, i think at the moment I probably need just some day or two of bouldering, to adapt style and approach a bit from lead. And i believe, mistakes and unusefull attempts could easily disappear :)

My next stop will be already this weekend in Eindhoeven, where will be European Championship in bouldering. 

After competition in Munich, with team we are staying in Germany. There will be enought chances and opportunities to do some nice boudering, but sure, i am promise you, i will not forget on lead and also do some nice routes inbetween! :)

For all followers, please cross fingers for me on 31st of August! :)

More news after European Championship ...