Back to comps :)

WC Puurs ...

 

First and most important of all, what i have to say is – I was so happy to climb again and be able to grab all kind of holds! :)

As you know, i have skipped world championship and during this time, healing my finger and spent some time at local gym, climb what i was able to... So, i felt (quite) ready and very excited to go to next competition! Sure, only after 3 weeks my finger wasn't completely healed, but (very) good enough to climb, even hard routes. I hope, that with performance will everything be quite there as it needs to be and that during this time i didn't loos soo much of resistance and power. But i also knew, that i still need to be little careful with thumb and that i will need to fight even more than usually! :)

 

Because other team was already in Puurs, i took a plane and joined them on thursday. Competition in Puurs is always very good organized and said with one word, perfect!

On the day of competition, standing under this wall brigs me mixed feelings. I was happy to be there, excited to go climb, observed the routes and liked them, but honesty, also kind of unsure what to expect ... And this kind was also my climbing - little too 'secured'. But already in first route, which i have topped out, i got a prove, that everything is almost where it needs to be :). So, go on! :) Next day there was ½ finals and finals. In ½ final i started very good, but later in upper part of route little 'stuck' on some few places and spent some extra power to come trough. But, it was enough for finals :). Route in final was by my opinion easier than ½ final, maybe with some more cruxy parts and top (but i can't say for sure, because i didn't come till there). Well, maybe to sum up that day – i was happy to be 'back' again, not loose too much in this time and satisfied with climbing - specially, that i fight and not give up!

 

So, after competition we packed thing and went back to Slovenia for few days, before leaving on next step on WC's in Atlanta.

(all fotos by: Roman Krajnik)

So, see you there!

Bye, mina

No Paris ...

Yes, it's true …

 

I am not in Paris and I have break myfinger... It happened before ½ final on boulder WC in Munich, during waring up. As i already written in last post, my thumb staied in hole of sloper, when i was trying some moves. First, i didn't realize that somethig is 'really' wrong, sure i felt pain, there were aslo some blood, so i thought 'just some another scratches, i will survive' and went out to climb. Maybe, it was also 'luck' that i got an extra attempt on one boulder and didn't qualify for finals. But, i am not sure, if i would climb that eve...

Next day finger got swollen and stucked on place. So i went on x-rays to check, if everythnig is ok. And sure –it WASN'T! Doctor came to me and said 'girl, that's your picture.little front thumb bone is broken' … You can imagine my face and i get little dizzy for a momment... NOOO, it can't be true! But, it was.

(Thay have also told me, that finger MUST rest and be on place (=not move), because other way, there is high chance that little bone is not going to heal and can go out of wright place. And than there will be problems ... but luckly i didn't get a longete or screw, as they also thought to do)...

So, what to do now? I canceled Arco at first and staied really optimistics that i will climb on WC in Bercy. I have good experience with this wall from Chamonix, nice memories from european championship in Paris 2008 and knew, that i train good and hard for this comp... So, plan was to stay away from holds for a week (even, if i wanted to, i couldn't really grab a hold :S ), do some running and therapies. It accually wasn't so hard for me to wait that week to pass, because i believed, that it will be good after that. I really started climbing (or more moving on the wall) after a week, but there were still pain and i couldn't grab a lot of holds. But, situation was getting visiby better and better from day to day, so i didn't get out of hopes for WC.

There is place for me now ...

Anyway that finger was/ is healling unbelieveble quick, day before deppartment there were still holds, that i couldn't grab, even if i wanted so much. Just before departure the x-ray photo was not so good that i expected :'(. So, after lotsof thingking, me, my coach and doctor decided that it is too risky togo on comp … Because i know, once i would be there i would grab holds, even if there will be pain. And one 'wrong' move and bone could goout of place and i could say goodbye not just to one comp, but ... And because climbing means so much to me, i decided not to risk, because i want to climb also later in my life. And there is no comp worth the helth of my finger, even if this in WCin Paris. Specilally, because everything with healling was/is gettingso good and accually quick, that it is worth to wait for a week and get it really healed. Even, if there is world champipnship:S...

So, i staied home, training well and watching all you guys from web-broadcasting. But, i am looking forward that you will se me lready in Puurs. well, not just tottaly the same 'old' me, but keep it sicret! ;)

Till than, i will cross thingers for all Slovenia climbing team and also other on WC.

And i will also let you know, if there will be some news from here! ;)